My obsession is that my 1990 ran better hot than this 103” does.
When it is cold I have no problem.
I really don’t care how hot the oil is just keep the power there.

 

When the bike gets hot, the computer pulls timing. That's what it's designed to do. I would much rather have it do that than detonate itself to oblivion.

 

If what you are saying is what is in fact happening (timing retarded when bike reaches a certain temp and stays that way even when you start moving), it at least explains the phenomenon for me. Behavior per design.

However - I'm a little wierded out by it tho - since when it's hot, you have no real sense of what to expect. Maybe it's a question of getting used to it and hopefully now that the radiant heat from the cat is gone, it will improve.

I will be keeping my eye on threads that are related to the aftermarket fan assist unit for the oil cooler. I should also evaluate calling Fuelmoto and asking if there are any tweaks I should try to the PCV map they provided.

Thanks for all your input and opinions...

 

So when KCWFHOG said the MOCO admits there is a problem with a restriction it is just timing?

 

In his case, there might have been two things in play. It is my belief, based on what 05Train is saying, that the ECM is doing what it is designed to do.

It will be interesting to see if the new cat in KC's bike does anything for him at all.

 

having re-read this thread, I thought I would chime in again. I ride as a daily commuter, and have to deal with both hot ambient temperatures AND Atlanta rush hour traffic. First off, my '10 FLHTK is stock performance wise. Since mid May, when I leave work in the evenings, it's been above 90 degrees. I run at 75-80 mph for about 50 miles, when I nearly always hit bumper-to-bumper traffic. During this stretch, the EITMS kicks in every time I come to a stop. I've learned to throttle up before releasing the clutch (first time i happened, I stalled the bike).
The only time it "stumbles" is when I'm coming off the line in 1st gear and it's below approximately 2200 rpm. From second on, there doesn't seem to be any loss of power at all.

As to DutchHawgs post, I've never even TRIED going up a grade in 6th at 55-60. At 55-60 I'm only turning 2500 rpm in 5th. If I shifted to 6th I would be lugging the engine. I don't shift to 6th until 70 mph. In 5th, I'm turning 3200 rpm at 70 mph...with plenty of power.

 

Thanks Zippoman...

I have learned to do the same thing and, maybe not learned... just a throwback to how I used to get my old Evo going off the line.

The behavior I'm talking about is truly noticeable if you try and get going in any kind of spirited fashion, right after you let the clutch out and start moving. You really can't avoid noticing it.

I also agree with you on 6th gear. It took me a while to get used to the fact that these newer motors have a different power band, and that cruising at 2800 - 3000 rpm seems to be where it is most driveable.

 

Then I guess I don't have the problem you're describing. I often crack on it as soon as i shift into 2nd, 3rd, 4th leaving traffic at lights and I haven't noticed a loss of power at all. All this after sometimes sitting in stop and go traffic for 30-40 minutes AFTER a 50 mile run at 80+. All the above posts make me wonder if I ought to just put up with the heat from the cat and leave everything stock. I've got no complaints after 6.5 months and 18.5K miles...

 

That mirrors my experience. The EITMS kicks in when idling, but once I'm moving I've never had an issue. With that said, the ECM will pull timing when cylinder head temperatures reach a certain point. If that's happened on my bike, I haven't noticed it, and it's not for lack of riding in the heat.

 

Hey guys, I have a '10 limited also. I have the same issues. Got back from a 5100 mile trip in AZ two weeks ago. The RIGHT side (only) muffler is yellow at front and tip. Power is crap at 122 degrees and going up the mountains. It pings like crazy if I get in the throttle at all also. AND octane booster is snake oil.

I have yet to get the bike into the shop for any warrenty work, so I don't know the response I will get. I imagine that getting rid of the lean condition and the cat is the way to solve this design issue. But, funds are not in the cards for that right now. So, I will try to weather the summer and have funds for that this winter.

Interesting thread. Leads me to a different head pipe and a PCV or Harley equivalent. I really like the Vance and Hines power duals and monster ovals. Anyone have experience with these?