Dyno Thoughts Please
So instead of asking whether I should go with the PC or the SERT I'm just gonna say that I have set an appointment on Thursday to have my 03' RKC dynoed (Recently put on V&H Big Shot True Duals and the bike is running very lean and popping and backfiring when I down shift). Luckily I found out the guy I bought the bike from a few years ago, actually had the dealer dyno the bike with a SERT when he bought it and had Hooker baffles put on. So basically, I got a free race tuner (SE) out of the deal and saved $450.00!! That's why I'm doing the dyno with the race tuner since it seems the main drawback is how expensive it is. The Dealer said it would cost around $300-350.00 in labor to do it. The guy tuning it comes highly recommended as well (Snake River HD in Twin Falls, ID).
My question is, do I need to request anything from the tuner as far as personalizing the settings that any of you may have asked for when having yours done. Like I said, I totally trust this guy so I have no problem just dropping it off, but just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything I need to know beforehand that I may want to ask about.
I can't wait to have it done and see what kind of difference it makes. Hopefully quite a bit. Thanks for any help you can give. -Mike
My question is, do I need to request anything from the tuner as far as personalizing the settings that any of you may have asked for when having yours done. Like I said, I totally trust this guy so I have no problem just dropping it off, but just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything I need to know beforehand that I may want to ask about.
I can't wait to have it done and see what kind of difference it makes. Hopefully quite a bit. Thanks for any help you can give. -Mike
When I had mine done, I asked him to set it up for economy in the cruise range. This is getting me right around 42 mpg cruising on the HWY and plenty of power accelerating and WOT...of course if I play with it and am getting on it then my mileage drops, but have plenty of power...
If he's good & ya trust him, then there's no use asking a bunch'a cyberspecialists.. 
If it were me, I'd wanna be sure he's tuning for total rideability, across all RPM / load conditions ~ not just WFO, 100% throttle. What ya see "on paper" is a pull @ 100% throttle & is not necessarilly a represention of how the bike will "ride".
If the bike has a SERT, be sure ya take the dongle with ya to the tuner, or you will be buying another (new) one after all.

If it were me, I'd wanna be sure he's tuning for total rideability, across all RPM / load conditions ~ not just WFO, 100% throttle. What ya see "on paper" is a pull @ 100% throttle & is not necessarilly a represention of how the bike will "ride".
If the bike has a SERT, be sure ya take the dongle with ya to the tuner, or you will be buying another (new) one after all.
Maybe true on a carbed bike, but not so much on a FI bike. With a FI tune you tune throttle positions and RPM ranges (on '10's you tune MAP load and RPM ranges). We tune zero through 100 percent throttle positions from idle to rev limiter, so there is litterally hundreds of cells that get adjusted in a proper tune. The cruising range of an average HD is around 7 to 20 perrcent TP between about 2000 and 3000 RPMS. We can tune this area for fuel economy, even on extreme builds. But the higher TP's (like 60%, 80% and 100%) can be tuned for performance. Long gone are the days when you have to give up economy to gain performance.
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