Electrical Gremlin
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,034
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From: Open Road, USA
Electrical Gremlin
Well, I am guess my battery(04-12-05 date on battery)died going to work today. The volt meter was reading almost 14V when I left the driveway, the next time I looked at it, it was down to 12.5 and moving up and down a little.
It finally got down to 12 and stayed there all the way to work. I checked the cables and grounds, etc, could find nothing loose. So on the way home tonight it, finally got down to 10 V as I was turning into the street I live on the battery light came on. And just as I back it into my parking space it died, waited a couple of minutes and it did start although barely. I guess 5 yrs 3 months ain't to bad for a HD battery.
Joe
It finally got down to 12 and stayed there all the way to work. I checked the cables and grounds, etc, could find nothing loose. So on the way home tonight it, finally got down to 10 V as I was turning into the street I live on the battery light came on. And just as I back it into my parking space it died, waited a couple of minutes and it did start although barely. I guess 5 yrs 3 months ain't to bad for a HD battery.
Joe
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,535
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From: Salem, Va.
You need to use a DVOM to test the charging out put before you take the stock gauge's word for it. I had a voltmeter go bad on my Ultra. At the battery with the bike running look for 13.5 - 14.2 volts. With the bike not running look for a little over 12 volts.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,884
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From: Goldsboro, NC
But Hojones, he said the bike barely started later. Sounds like he got his moneys worth out of that battery. Charging system is still good I hope. (Although running a bad battery for some time can cause a charging system to fail) Hopefully one ride won't do that.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 173
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From: New York
Given the age of the battery it is likely that the OP is correct in suspecting that the battery is the root of the problem. However relying on your observations of the voltmeter on the bike can cause you other problems.
The decreasing voltage readings that were observed only indicate that the potential difference between the anode and cathode of the battery was decreasing. This means the battery is not being charged. This can also result from a failure of the charging system. Make sure you check that too.
The decreasing voltage readings that were observed only indicate that the potential difference between the anode and cathode of the battery was decreasing. This means the battery is not being charged. This can also result from a failure of the charging system. Make sure you check that too.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Salem, Va.
I agree, but it is always a good idea to make sure of the problem instead of guessing and throwing money at the problem. Granted the battery is most likely the cause but since checking the charging system is a simple process why not do it and be sure. JMO
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: Open Road, USA
Took the battery to my indy and the HD shop, both came to the same conclusion. Battery tested ok, just needed charged. So guess it's a trip to the doctor for the ole girl. No real clear idea what the problem is, just either the voltage regulator or the stator. Got an appointment for Monday to get the bad news. Looking at 3-400.00 parts and labor if the stator is bad, not sure about the regulator cost.
Joe
Joe
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,535
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From: Salem, Va.
Before you take it to the dealer get on the floor and check on the bottom of the regulator and make sure the wires are plugged in good. They have a retainer on the plugs that will come loose and the plug will come unplugged. Just a thought and may save you some money.
Took the battery to my indy and the HD shop, both came to the same conclusion. Battery tested ok, just needed charged. So guess it's a trip to the doctor for the ole girl. No real clear idea what the problem is, just either the voltage regulator or the stator. Got an appointment for Monday to get the bad news. Looking at 3-400.00 parts and labor if the stator is bad, not sure about the regulator cost.
Joe
Joe
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: Open Road, USA
Thanks, will check it, checked the wires I could see. Most likely, will take it to the indy, he quoted me around 400.00 to replace the stator. I am wondering if the rotor could be bad, also.
Joe
Joe
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: Open Road, USA
UPDATE: I picked the bike up this morning from Biker Alley at Osage Beach, Mo and must say I was almost in shock at the bill. 1- Cycle Electric stator, 1-primary chain adjuster shoe, 1 qt oil, 1 primary gasket and labor. Total bill
$273.94. He also adjusted the clutch, bled and refilled front brake fluid. I am totally in shock, was expecting 350-450.00 bill.
$273.94. He also adjusted the clutch, bled and refilled front brake fluid. I am totally in shock, was expecting 350-450.00 bill.
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