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Wiring Yaffe Monkey Bars Question

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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 01:39 PM
  #11  
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i have an 02 and was wondering if you can use your stock cable and did you have to extend your wiring w/ 10" monkey bar?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 06:01 PM
  #12  
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I didn't have to extend anything with my 10" PYO, but i did notice today that if i turn to far to the right that the clutch cable extends to the point where it engages your clutch and you can move. In normal riding i havent noticed but today i went to take the experianced MSF riders couse with some buddies just for the hell of it because the last time i took it was 2005. I was still able to pass the course but doing the figure 8's in that small box required some coasting! I might end up putting braided lines on in the future and extending the clutch +2 while i'm at it. But for normal riding i don't think anyone would have even noticed.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #13  
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thanks for the info. i got out bid on a set last weekend, i want to get a set but cant afford new cables right now. dont you love doing those figure 8's? i did mine in may at tinker, these bikes dont like 100 degrees plus all day in a parking lot.....
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #14  
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sorry blu02 if they were the set on ebay those are on there way to my house. Thats why I started the thread because I have heard horror stories on the weld jobs on them so I think I might look into so options with either the sheaths by adding a length of heat shrink for extra protection near the point or looking at like a plastic coating for inside the bars. That scares me a little bit. Harbor Freight has a plastic coating for tool handles I was considering. I will post pictures and install tips after my fight with the bars. If you all are good I might take some in the process pics as well. It works out I also have to replace a broken handlebar switch while I am in there and it would have been a pain while the klock bars were on the bike.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #15  
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Mine green plug was perfect and still didn't work, big headache
That was my experience too. I had it all back together on my 10' MBB and then the throttle didn't work...ugh...the language coming from the garage was not nice and I'm glad my kids were in bed! I used just some jiffy lube. I did have to change my clutch cable because stock was too short but the wires and brake line was just fine.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 08:46 PM
  #16  
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well im glad someone on here got them... pics and tips of the install would be great cause i plan on getting a set this winter when ive got the bike apart for paint.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 09:43 PM
  #17  
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The sharp corner and not knowing how sharp the inside looks like at the bend is what scared me away from the Yaffy bars. I'll stick with Cyclesmith and HCC. Still a pain in the *** to pull the wire thru.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 10:54 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Blu02
well im glad someone on here got them... pics and tips of the install would be great cause i plan on getting a set this winter when ive got the bike apart for paint.
its the least I can do
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 07:17 PM
  #19  
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Well after a night of working on them and a 6 pack they are done. Not as bad as I thought! I will share a few tips that I have learned:

They took me from start to finish, now that means starting taking the old bars off until first ride about 6 hours with a stop to eat dinner in between. I also had to replace a broken switch which took a good 1/4 of that time.

So lets see:

Wiring the bars. I started with 10lb test fishing line to try and pull them through. That just wasn't cutting it. I went to the hardware store and bought a fairly flat piece of light duty chain. It was 35lb chain and worked like a charm. There is enough weight to let it fall through the bars and enough pulling strength to get the wires around the bend. Wear gloves though the inside of my fingers is a war reminder of what pulling chain slipping through your fingers feels like. This took about 15min to do both sides with out any sort of lubricant on the sheath. And I ended up leaving the sheaths on both sides.

I had to replace a broken up down button in the housing which took a while so that added time.

The molex connectors are not to bad when you take pictures and draw a diagram of where the wires go. I made them on the computer for future reference, as I am sure I will need them again someday. I will post those as well if people would like.

The installation of the bars wasn't horrible I loosely tightened the bars down and put the inner fairing in place and adjusted them to where they felt good with the hand controls on loose as well. That way I could adjust the height and position of everything and tighten it all down when I was done.

They feel great, look sick and were not at bad as people make them sound. I almost didn't want to do them after reading reviews on them. After building a custom bagger frame up I didn't think they could be that hard. They really aren't if you know what you are getting yourself into.

Feel free to ask questions, I will do my best and I will get pictures up tomorrow when I get home from work. Enjoy, hope this helps and ride safe.

Oh wrong place I know but I have a set of ergo back bars in chrome if anyone is interested. I will be posting them in the for sale section soon. They were on for about a month and a half and are in perfect shape. They were nice bars, awesome hand position but just wanted a higher bar.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 02:17 AM
  #20  
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I could sure use that diagram sir, im cuttin that green son of a gun.
 
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