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Tips for changing front brake line on ABS bike

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Old May 3, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #11  
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rg_dave
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I'm one of the earlier posts that bled them myself. Brakes are perfect, fiirm, no ABS light, ABS works great (yes, I tested it), and no codes for 20,000 miles. I was actually planning to just get it bled and then take it to the dealer to place it on the digital tech. I'm not saying that I don't agree with doing that, I do agree with doing that. I just didn't have to. If air is introduced into the ABS module you can't get it out through normal bleeding. The digital tech pulses the module rapidly forcing the air out during bleeding. You can bleed the lines on either side of the ABS module without introducing air. If you are comfortable doing that then go for it, if not take it to the dealer. Or do both. Just test your brakes thoroughly before you need them.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by SG_Dave
I'm one of the earlier posts that bled them myself. Brakes are perfect, fiirm, no ABS light, ABS works great (yes, I tested it), and no codes for 20,000 miles. I was actually planning to just get it bled and then take it to the dealer to place it on the digital tech. I'm not saying that I don't agree with doing that, I do agree with doing that. I just didn't have to. If air is introduced into the ABS module you can't get it out through normal bleeding. The digital tech pulses the module rapidly forcing the air out during bleeding. You can bleed the lines on either side of the ABS module without introducing air. If you are comfortable doing that then go for it, if not take it to the dealer. Or do both. Just test your brakes thoroughly before you need them.
Did you just bleed or did you change out a line too? I actually removed a line and put a longer upper on...it was done at an Indy shop...they even recommended I do it, and there was no code and brakes work fine.

I think just a bleed for maintenance, unless I was uncomfortable with something, I might not have thought about it as much.

Btw...what method did you use? I always did the old squeeze and fill on past bikes cuz I didn't have a speed bleeder or anything fancy.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 08:21 PM
  #13  
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I was able to get mine without getting light. I attached the line at the MC and put the other end in a jar of brake fluid and pump it until I didnt have bubbles. Put one MC cover, then attached to the ABS block, removed MC cover and then flicked the lever until I had solid lever and no bubbles coming from MC reservoir.

I will probably have them DT it when I have 10k service done just for piece of mind.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 06:31 PM
  #14  
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Zachy_Ness
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Hello all! Just decided to swap bars and gone for a Vindikta 16" Devil Dog Bars. Now I need to have a longer front brake line ("012 Street Bob with ABS). I can do most of the work all by myself, but I cannot find here in Italy the 4 way piece to send and return the hydraulic to the ABS module(stock has two lines fused and two detachable). Any hints?thank you
Zach
 
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Old Jul 29, 2017 | 01:15 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by rg_dave
The trick is to keep the air out of the ABS module. Replace the line. Attach tubing from a vacuum pump to the end of the line by the ABS module. Squeeze lever. Keep the MC full. Pull fluid through the line, refilling MC as needed. Once fluid is flowing freely fill the hole in the ABS module with fluid double check that everything is covered and attach the line. Flick the lever to make sure bubbles are out. Your done. Brake will be solid no codes. To bleed from ABS to calipers use speed bleeders. As long as you only work on one side of the ABS module at a time you don't need to take it to the dealer to put it on the digital tech.
I had to re-read this like 4 times... finally just had to move your damn GIF out of view hahahahaha.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 11:59 PM
  #16  
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Fyi... it only takes one single bubble to make it into the abs module and it will lock up. 09 and module is one piece for $800 and the 2 piece versions run $400 not including labor... spend the cash and have it done right. Jmop.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 10:07 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by psychocircus
Fyi... it only takes one single bubble to make it into the abs module and it will lock up. 09 and module is one piece for $800 and the 2 piece versions run $400 not including labor... spend the cash and have it done right. Jmop.
As in once there is Air in it you're done? I just did mine the other day, I believe I got most of the Air out, but am headed to HD today for the DTII bleed.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 06:11 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by B.Cole
As in once there is Air in it you're done? I just did mine the other day, I believe I got most of the Air out, but am headed to HD today for the DTII bleed.
yes. If you have any doubts there may be air in the system do not turn the bike on and trailer it to your dealer. The DTII is required to bleed the system properly.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 08:37 AM
  #19  
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Did this job on my ABS equipped Glide a few months ago. Was meticulous in my bleeding. ..waited a few days...tested the lever several times, and only when I was satisfied that all the air was gone did I turn on the ignition. All was well. But if you're not comfortable with your skills, this is a good job for the dealer.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 09:04 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Veekness
Did this job on my ABS equipped Glide a few months ago. Was meticulous in my bleeding. ..waited a few days...tested the lever several times, and only when I was satisfied that all the air was gone did I turn on the ignition. All was well. But if you're not comfortable with your skills, this is a good job for the dealer.
i rode for a bit and newthere was still a little air in it. Took it to HD for $129 bleed, no other issues.
 
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