Ticking?
Phase one complete...
Installed the 107kit, heads and woods lifters. Great kit all went together well with no issues. Flashed the ecu with the power vision and she fired up on the first try. Heat cycled the engine and took her for a little ride and i can say i am happy! Plenty of power and torque, cant wait till she is broken in a little more!!!
Only issue i am having is lots of tcking, much louder than before. The FM push rods have 24 flats on them, might have to try another 1/2 turn. Very anoying, i was hoping she would be quiter. Ticking is loudest between 2500 and 3500.
Phase two next week, se compensator and se heavy clutch.
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2009 Street Glide
Installed the 107kit, heads and woods lifters. Great kit all went together well with no issues. Flashed the ecu with the power vision and she fired up on the first try. Heat cycled the engine and took her for a little ride and i can say i am happy! Plenty of power and torque, cant wait till she is broken in a little more!!!
Only issue i am having is lots of tcking, much louder than before. The FM push rods have 24 flats on them, might have to try another 1/2 turn. Very anoying, i was hoping she would be quiter. Ticking is loudest between 2500 and 3500.
Phase two next week, se compensator and se heavy clutch.
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2009 Street Glide
****, i have ticking now with the stock push rods and cam...
but, i don't mind a noisy engine. i can't wait for this winter. frame-off 107 build....really just an excuse to paint the frame AND bump the cc's at the same time
but, i don't mind a noisy engine. i can't wait for this winter. frame-off 107 build....really just an excuse to paint the frame AND bump the cc's at the same time
As long as you've got the motor out of the frame, it wouldn't take any time to bore the cases for a 113 or 117 build. You don't need a press to get the flywheel out ever since the moco did away with the timken bottom end. Getting the motor out is more work than stripping it down to the cases.
As long as you've got the motor out of the frame, it wouldn't take any time to bore the cases for a 113 or 117 build. You don't need a press to get the flywheel out ever since the moco did away with the timken bottom end. Getting the motor out is more work than stripping it down to the cases.
just finshed putting my new heads on my bike, it already had the 255 cams. it didnt tick as much when i had the stock heads and pushrods. i set them at 2.5 turns but it still ticks. I searched posts on lifters and see a hillside head post about setting them at .140-.150 after preload which is just about 3 turns after preload. Im going to turn 2 more flats which will be 1 flat just under 3 and see if the .140 helps. mayhave to get woods lifters to quiet it down.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...uestion-2.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...uestion-2.html
make sure to take pictures and document your job on here, I would love to see how its done. Im no mechanic, but I am certainly not afraid of a wrench and I love to see step by step instructions.
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Info@LongRideShields.com
Sales and Marketing:
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Phone:
775.331.3789
Well after doing research, i'm going to stick with the 107 kit and just get the crank trued and welded. i'm not looking for belt-breaking numbers, just wheelies.
but i'm still getting the frame painted
but i'm still getting the frame painted
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If I were going to rebuild the motor in my bike, I'd probably tear down the top end while the motor was in the frame, get the pistons and jugs off, then pull out the bottom end out of the bike. Then go through the cam chest while the motor was on the bench. Put the bottom end back together, then back in the frame and assemble the top end with the motor back on the bike. Makes getting the motor in and out of the bike a lot easier if you're not wrestling with the whole thing. Kind of a tradeoff, though, because it's so easy to go through the motor when its on the bench.
And I'm not a mechanic, but I can follow the manual.






