Hard Saddlebag Keys
#21
I am resurrecting this thread cause I have 2 questions. I bought a spare set of keys from the dealer last year, and they are stamped with the same code as my original keys. They don't work as smoothly on the saddlebag locks as the originals, though. I am assuming my originals (2003) are USA made and the spares made in China, cause the stamps look cheaper. Anyone know how to get spares to work better?
Today, my first day riding after winter storage even the originals were sticky. So I lubed the lock pin that rotates with turbine oil and that smoothed it out. Anyone know what is the best thing to lubricate the saddlebag locks ? Thanks. Thank you God for making it 55 degrees on March 11!
Today, my first day riding after winter storage even the originals were sticky. So I lubed the lock pin that rotates with turbine oil and that smoothed it out. Anyone know what is the best thing to lubricate the saddlebag locks ? Thanks. Thank you God for making it 55 degrees on March 11!
#22
I am resurrecting this thread cause I have 2 questions. I bought a spare set of keys from the dealer last year, and they are stamped with the same code as my original keys. They don't work as smoothly on the saddlebag locks as the originals, though. I am assuming my originals (2003) are USA made and the spares made in China, cause the stamps look cheaper. Anyone know how to get spares to work better?
Today, my first day riding after winter storage even the originals were sticky. So I lubed the lock pin that rotates with turbine oil and that smoothed it out. Anyone know what is the best thing to lubricate the saddlebag locks ? Thanks. Thank you God for making it 55 degrees on March 11!
Today, my first day riding after winter storage even the originals were sticky. So I lubed the lock pin that rotates with turbine oil and that smoothed it out. Anyone know what is the best thing to lubricate the saddlebag locks ? Thanks. Thank you God for making it 55 degrees on March 11!
In my case, I don't think the lock had ever been used at all by the previous owner -- especially since the keys were (initially) lost. The lock cylinders were very, very stiff. It took a few minutes of working with a lubricated key before it moved freely.
Hope this helps,
'fooz
#23
I used a silicone spray lubricant on the keys, spraying the keys and not the lock cylinders. Spray the key, insert the key, fiddle with it until it feels freed up. Lather, rinse, repeat, until the key and lock feel smooth.
In my case, I don't think the lock had ever been used at all by the previous owner -- especially since the keys were (initially) lost. The lock cylinders were very, very stiff. It took a few minutes of working with a lubricated key before it moved freely.
Hope this helps,
'fooz
In my case, I don't think the lock had ever been used at all by the previous owner -- especially since the keys were (initially) lost. The lock cylinders were very, very stiff. It took a few minutes of working with a lubricated key before it moved freely.
Hope this helps,
'fooz
#24
WRONG!! The saddlebag and tourpack require the same keyas the ignition. A blank barrel key will ONLY open the fuel cap
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