Windshield 2012 Street Glide
sit on the bike and hold your arm straight out from your nose. Measure from the bottom of the windshield to this point and you will get the size windshield you need. You should be looking just over the windshield and the air will go over your head. At 6'1 I just put on a 10" smoked and it is finally good.
I'm 6'3 with a 36" inseam (you can do the math for torso height). I run a Klock Werks 6.5" smoked shield and it's just right for me with a half helmet. No matter what size you get, go with a contoured shield because it will flip the air up higher than a normal screen. In essence, it gives you taller screen performance in a shorter, more stylish screen.
I also have a 8.5" Klock Werks to use when I have self loading baggage along for the ride.
I also have a 8.5" Klock Werks to use when I have self loading baggage along for the ride.
I'd also recommend having a look at the National Cycle VStream shield. I'm running the 10.75" version and it cuts back on the buffeting tremendously.
Also keep in mind that the best shield choice is pretty sensitive to your choice of seat. I've got three seats for my SG and the 2012 Ultra seat moves me closer to the shield, and that by itself reduces the buffeting I get.
Hope this helps,
'fooz
Also keep in mind that the best shield choice is pretty sensitive to your choice of seat. I've got three seats for my SG and the 2012 Ultra seat moves me closer to the shield, and that by itself reduces the buffeting I get.
Hope this helps,
'fooz
Another 8.5" Klock Werks rider here...@ 5'11" w/34" inseam I started w/6.5" KW, but added w/s bags & it was too tight under 6.5" shield. Upgraded to 8.5" and couldn't be happier.
FYI, if you're looking to clear the dirty air from riding, shield is one of many items you can look @ for comfort. Later down the road you might want to add fairing wings, fork air baffle & possibly vented/non-vented lowers...
FYI, if you're looking to clear the dirty air from riding, shield is one of many items you can look @ for comfort. Later down the road you might want to add fairing wings, fork air baffle & possibly vented/non-vented lowers...
surprisingly the windsplitter from HD isn't that bad. Buddy of mine is 6-1 or 6-2 and running one and loves it. No buffeting and everything goes up and over, but still hard to beat the klockwerks 8.5. Me personally, almost 6 ft. and run the 6.5 klockwerks, some buffeting over 70-75 but for the most part it's a great shield
First thing I did when I got my new Street Glide home was install my 10" Memphis shade windshield. It has served me well on 2 previous Eglides. It is a little thicker than a stock one which eliminates buffeting.
my experience says clear and no recurve, so that you can see through it if you tuck into the fairing in crap weather.
But I don't wear a full face, so maybe you are ok in weather.
I like the top edge of the windscreen to "appear" about 40' in front of the bike.
I swap seats around depending on what i am doing, and swap windscreens to match.
I buy stock take off windscreens from other riders ( about $30) and cut the bottom, hidden, edge with a roto zip to desired height.
very generally: the higher the windscreen, the more air displaced by the fairing, the larger the low pressure zone behind the fairing.
As air rushes to fill this zone, the more turbulent the air.
You can "tune" this by raising or lowering the windscreen to affect where the high/low pressure zones meet.
You may also find that directing air using fairing edge deflectors will minimise pressure differential and head bobble.
helmet shape has alot to do with this, with a FF, you present twice the area for the air currents to hit, and more leverage on your neck-bone
with the windscreen edge appearing 40' in front of the bike, most of the bugs and grit go just over my hair- I can wear a ball cap all day at 70 mph or better.
- and the H-D Lexan is tough, mine took an apple sized rock at 65 mph that would have broken my face. ebay type units may be of lesser quality material
mike
But I don't wear a full face, so maybe you are ok in weather.
I like the top edge of the windscreen to "appear" about 40' in front of the bike.
I swap seats around depending on what i am doing, and swap windscreens to match.
I buy stock take off windscreens from other riders ( about $30) and cut the bottom, hidden, edge with a roto zip to desired height.
very generally: the higher the windscreen, the more air displaced by the fairing, the larger the low pressure zone behind the fairing.
As air rushes to fill this zone, the more turbulent the air.
You can "tune" this by raising or lowering the windscreen to affect where the high/low pressure zones meet.
You may also find that directing air using fairing edge deflectors will minimise pressure differential and head bobble.
helmet shape has alot to do with this, with a FF, you present twice the area for the air currents to hit, and more leverage on your neck-bone
with the windscreen edge appearing 40' in front of the bike, most of the bugs and grit go just over my hair- I can wear a ball cap all day at 70 mph or better.
- and the H-D Lexan is tough, mine took an apple sized rock at 65 mph that would have broken my face. ebay type units may be of lesser quality material
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Mar 20, 2012 at 02:19 PM.








