push rods
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 184
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From: Hadley MASS
push rods
I was wondering if there is any one near western ma that would be willing to help ( show me how i will do work ). I am hearing some tapping which seems to be louder than what I remember after I had a 95 bore done. This is only my opinion . I am leaving for vacation sunday morning for a week. Cant get in to any shops.
I do not know the thread count of the adjustable rods I have and do not know how to find tdc.
I could be totally wrong with what I am hearing and a second set of ears would help.
Thanks
I do not know the thread count of the adjustable rods I have and do not know how to find tdc.
I could be totally wrong with what I am hearing and a second set of ears would help.
Thanks
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 123
Likes: 2
From: dual locations: wash. & az.
I was wondering if there is any one near western ma that would be willing to help ( show me how i will do work ). I am hearing some tapping which seems to be louder than what I remember after I had a 95 bore done. This is only my opinion . I am leaving for vacation sunday morning for a week. Cant get in to any shops.
I do not know the thread count of the adjustable rods I have and do not know how to find tdc.
I could be totally wrong with what I am hearing and a second set of ears would help.
Thanks
I do not know the thread count of the adjustable rods I have and do not know how to find tdc.
I could be totally wrong with what I am hearing and a second set of ears would help.
Thanks
There are PLENTY of videos out there to show from start to finish...
Good ones... I don't have the knowledge to get a link for you. BUT someone may step in and help.
signed....REDHEAD
GOOD ONE Uncle Larry, Thanks for helping this situation out...He'll be able to do ALL himself now...
Last edited by REDHEAD; Aug 3, 2012 at 10:17 AM. Reason: personal tks
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 7
From: Daytona, Fla.
If you can get the wheels off the ground here is a method that will work with any thread pitch.
With the bike on a lift (wheels off the ground) & in 2nd/3rd gear & the push rod covers open, rotate the rear wheel. Watch the push rods on one cylinder. When either push rod reaches it's highest point check the corresponding push rod on the other cylinder (intake to intake, or exhaust to exhaust). It should be at it's lowest point. Repeat a couple of times to be sure. You adjust at the lowest point.
At the lowest point you should be able to rotate the push rod with your fingers, but feel no up/down slack. If all four push rods are like that you probably don't need to adjust.
If you want to adjust, while at the lowest point loosen the jam nut & extend the push rod by about one turn (6 flats). Allow the lifter time to bleed down to the point you can once again rotate it with your fingers. Repeat this process until you can no longer rotate the push rod (the lifter is bottomed). Don't over extend the push rod because it will open the valve. Now back the push rod down slowly till you can turn the push rod with your fingers. It should only take a half turn (3 flats) or less, but no more than the last full turn you just extended the push rod.
When you have the lifter collapsed you will be able to adjust the push rod to the point that you can just rotate it with your fingers, but have no up/down slack. At that point loosen the push rod 3/4 to 1 full turn. Repeat the process for each push rod you want to adjust.
Hand rotate the motor several times (by rotating the rear wheel). *DO NOT START THE MOTOR* As you rotate the motor the lifters will pump up. You will loose any slack at the bottom of the cam & will be able to rotate the push rods, but not move them up or down. On the lobe of the cam you will not be able to rotate the push rods.
This adjustment puts the lifter in the middle range of it's stroke. It allows for both expansion & compression of the lifter which is what it's designed to do.
With the bike on a lift (wheels off the ground) & in 2nd/3rd gear & the push rod covers open, rotate the rear wheel. Watch the push rods on one cylinder. When either push rod reaches it's highest point check the corresponding push rod on the other cylinder (intake to intake, or exhaust to exhaust). It should be at it's lowest point. Repeat a couple of times to be sure. You adjust at the lowest point.
At the lowest point you should be able to rotate the push rod with your fingers, but feel no up/down slack. If all four push rods are like that you probably don't need to adjust.
If you want to adjust, while at the lowest point loosen the jam nut & extend the push rod by about one turn (6 flats). Allow the lifter time to bleed down to the point you can once again rotate it with your fingers. Repeat this process until you can no longer rotate the push rod (the lifter is bottomed). Don't over extend the push rod because it will open the valve. Now back the push rod down slowly till you can turn the push rod with your fingers. It should only take a half turn (3 flats) or less, but no more than the last full turn you just extended the push rod.
When you have the lifter collapsed you will be able to adjust the push rod to the point that you can just rotate it with your fingers, but have no up/down slack. At that point loosen the push rod 3/4 to 1 full turn. Repeat the process for each push rod you want to adjust.
Hand rotate the motor several times (by rotating the rear wheel). *DO NOT START THE MOTOR* As you rotate the motor the lifters will pump up. You will loose any slack at the bottom of the cam & will be able to rotate the push rods, but not move them up or down. On the lobe of the cam you will not be able to rotate the push rods.
This adjustment puts the lifter in the middle range of it's stroke. It allows for both expansion & compression of the lifter which is what it's designed to do.
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