I have a 2000 Road King and I had to replace the cams, lifters and pushrods because of a broken spring tensioner. I chose to install SE adjustable pushrods to keep from having to pull the rocker boxes.

My question is:

I adjusted the pushrods per the instructions but I am not sure I got them adjusted right and I want to re-adjust them and I am wanting to know the proper procedure to adjust the rods after they have been installed.

 

make sure both lifters are down (piston TDC) I prefer doing the intake 1st. By hand extend the pushrod as far as you can by hand, make sure the white marker is facing you then with a wrench open the pushrod 2-1/2 turns then lock it down using 3 wrenches. I like waiting 10 or so minutes, making sure that the pushrod will spin by hand before doing the exhaust. Do the exhaust, wait 10+ minutes, spin the pushrod.....Then repeat the whole process exactly the same for thenext cylinder. make sure the lifters are in the right position

BTW Make sure that all of your O-rings are in place, and your pushrod covers are seated correctly. You will also save some heartache by holding your PR covers up while turning with rubber bands.

Arent you glad I didnt just say DO A SEARCH?

 

ADJUSTING ADJUSTABLE PUSH RODS

There are at least three methods for adjusting hydraulic lifters. These methods are very similar to those used to adjust automotive hydraulic lifters.
CAUTION: DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE IF A LIFTER IS ON THE HEEL OF THE CAM AND THE PUSH ROD CANNOT BE ROTATED!
The first method, while the least accurate, is the quickest and easiest. Start by adjusting the push rods to their shortest length and installing each into its proper valve position according to its length. Adjust each push rod until all free play is removed while the lifter is on the heel of the cam. Next, lengthen the push rod by turning the adjusting screw 4 to 5 turns (24 to 30 flats) and tighten the lock nut. Wait a couple of minutes to make sure the lifter has bled-down. Repeat for each push rod.
From a performance standpoint, the second method is more accurate than the first, but it takes longer to do. For accuracy the valve must be fully closed and its lifter positioned on the heel of the cam. Start by removing the spark plugs and rotating the engine forward until a push rod is at its highest position. Then adjust the same push rod for the other cylinder. (If the rear intake push rod is at its highest, you adjust the front intake push rod) Use the adjustment screw to lengthen the push rod until there is sufficient pressure so the push rod cannot be turned with the thumb and index finger. Wait at least two minutes for the lifter to bleed down, then lengthen the push rod again until it will not turn. Again, let the lifter bleed down. Keep repeating the tightening, bleed down procedure until the lifter will not bleed down anymore, but is not tight enough to open the valve. The lifter is now bottomed out. Now shorten the push rod by reversing the adjustment screw one half (1/2) to one (1) turn (3 to 6 flats). Tighten the lock nut. When finished you should be able to spin the push rod easily with your fingers. If it does not spin free, the lifter has too much preload and you must repeat the adjustment.
Rotate the engine so the lifter that was just adjusted is at its highest position. Adjust the same lifter on the opposite cylinder. Repeat the procedure for all four lifters. When all the lifters are adjusted, turn the engine a few additional revolutions by hand and check each lifter again. First make sure the lifter is on the heel of the cam and its valve is fully closed, and then check that the push rod will spin free. If any lifter is adjusted too tight you risk burning a valve because the valve will not completely close.
The third, and most accurate, method requires access to the valve spring top collar and a dial indicator. It’s long and involved so if you need those directions either email me or find a copy of The Big Twin High–Performance Guide by the late D. William Denish.

 

The instructions will give you the procedures for adjusting. Different brands of push rods have different threads per inch. so go by the instructions for your pushrods.

 

The adjustable pushrods are not made for adjusting the valvetrain, unless you have made major changes, the stock pushrods are measured accordingly and are matched with the cam you are using, now the tricky part is if you have more cam lift you must adjust preload to compensate for that, however if you put a cam with stock lift you can simply measure the stock pushrods(the ones that are not bent) and set the adjustable ones to this length once you have them in place if your lifters are healthy it will be just right, the plunger inside the lifter should be positioned in the middle of the lifter for the proper preload.

 

Ok, I think option 2 is the one that I will use but I still have 1 question. If I loosen up the rods and use this technique is there a period of time that I have to wait before starting the adjustments. Do the lifters have to build up before you start the bleed down process? May sound like a dumb question but this is the part I am confused about.

 

no there is a spring in the lifter that will make them act like they are pumped up. It is a simple job. Just make sure the lifter for the pushrod that you are adjusting is on the heel of the cam (lifter at its lowest point you can feel it go down then start back up if you have some one spin the rear wheel while keeping your fingers on the lifters). set the pushrod to 0 lash ie no up and down movement of the pushrod but not yet starting to push the lifter cup down. now do your 2.5-3 turns and wait for the lifter to bleed down enough to spin the pushrod using your thumb and index finger and then move on.

 

Wait about 15 minutes until you move to the next cylinder. The rod should spin in your fingers once bled down.

 

The pushrods will turn with my index finger and thumb but they do not freely spin. I take it, just being able to turn them without much resistance is what you mean

 

I vote for using the instructions which came with the adj push rods. The second method which Jinks posted is subjective to the person who is doing the 'feeling'. I don't believe I would use that method myself.

As honestbob stated, different brands have different number of threads per inch which require a different number of turns to arrive at the correct position.