Wheel Bearings
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
If your bike is ABS, then you have to use the Harley ABS bearing for the left front and right rear. I am not aware of any substitutes. It is made in Canada, or at least the replacements I bought from HD were. These ABS bearings are 3 mm wider than the non-ABS bearings because they contain the ABS encoder.
As for the non-abs side, there are options out there. SKF comes to mind. Cant remember the model number...6205 or 6209 or something like that. Rated at nearly 10,000 rpms. I am in a motel and can't get to my spares. They look to have a little larger ball in the bearing than the stock HD because the bore wall is slightly thinner than the stocker bore wall.
Note: Since we have to deal with the single row bearings now, it's really important that they are installed properly. Some good threads will come up in a search that will point to the fact that excessive pressure on the race (excessive meaning continued pressure on the race after the bearing is seated) can deform the race and create a condition where the bearing will wear unevenly and/or drastically shorten it's mechanical life.
As for the non-abs side, there are options out there. SKF comes to mind. Cant remember the model number...6205 or 6209 or something like that. Rated at nearly 10,000 rpms. I am in a motel and can't get to my spares. They look to have a little larger ball in the bearing than the stock HD because the bore wall is slightly thinner than the stocker bore wall.
Note: Since we have to deal with the single row bearings now, it's really important that they are installed properly. Some good threads will come up in a search that will point to the fact that excessive pressure on the race (excessive meaning continued pressure on the race after the bearing is seated) can deform the race and create a condition where the bearing will wear unevenly and/or drastically shorten it's mechanical life.
Last edited by Lowcountry Joe; Mar 7, 2013 at 08:26 AM. Reason: Added the note
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 279
From: North Cental Iowa
I used SKF 6205-2RS1, the 6205 is the main # for the bearing, the 2RS is for 2 rubber seals, not sure about the 1. It's a fairly common bearing & most bearing supply houses should carry it, just make sure to use a quality manufacturer, SKF, F A G, etc. Dimensions are 25mm ID, 52mm OD, & 15mm width, that's for the non-ABS bearing, as far as I know HD is the only source for the ABS bearing.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
Wheel bearings were a problem for a while, but to repeat that they are crap is probably unreasonable. Have you asked your local friendly dealer if they have been improved since your bike was built four years or so ago?!
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 1
From: Acworth, Ga
I used SKF 6205-2RS1, the 6205 is the main # for the bearing, the 2RS is for 2 rubber seals, not sure about the 1. It's a fairly common bearing & most bearing supply houses should carry it, just make sure to use a quality manufacturer, SKF, F A G, etc. Dimensions are 25mm ID, 52mm OD, & 15mm width, that's for the non-ABS bearing, as far as I know HD is the only source for the ABS bearing.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 351
Likes: 27
From: in a place with no Drama.
How long are these built to last?
Planning a 3 week trip, out to SD and then up into the north country. It seems people only get about a season out of them.
They seem a little biased...
Planning a 3 week trip, out to SD and then up into the north country. It seems people only get about a season out of them.
Wheel bearings were a problem for a while, but to repeat that they are crap is probably unreasonable. Have you asked your local friendly dealer if they have been improved since your was built four years or so ago?!
Last edited by JKSHYT; Mar 9, 2013 at 05:11 PM.
Trending Topics
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,947
Likes: 5
From: Ontario, Canada
If your bike is ABS, then you have to use the Harley ABS bearing for the left front and right rear. I am not aware of any substitutes. It is made in Canada, or at least the replacements I bought from HD were. These ABS bearings are 3 mm wider than the non-ABS bearings because they contain the ABS encoder.
As for the non-abs side, there are options out there. SKF comes to mind. Cant remember the model number...6205 or 6209 or something like that. Rated at nearly 10,000 rpms. I am in a motel and can't get to my spares. They look to have a little larger ball in the bearing than the stock HD because the bore wall is slightly thinner than the stocker bore wall.
Note: Since we have to deal with the single row bearings now, it's really important that they are installed properly. Some good threads will come up in a search that will point to the fact that excessive pressure on the race (excessive meaning continued pressure on the race after the bearing is seated) can deform the race and create a condition where the bearing will wear unevenly and/or drastically shorten it's mechanical life.
As for the non-abs side, there are options out there. SKF comes to mind. Cant remember the model number...6205 or 6209 or something like that. Rated at nearly 10,000 rpms. I am in a motel and can't get to my spares. They look to have a little larger ball in the bearing than the stock HD because the bore wall is slightly thinner than the stocker bore wall.
Note: Since we have to deal with the single row bearings now, it's really important that they are installed properly. Some good threads will come up in a search that will point to the fact that excessive pressure on the race (excessive meaning continued pressure on the race after the bearing is seated) can deform the race and create a condition where the bearing will wear unevenly and/or drastically shorten it's mechanical life.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Yes, excessive axle nut tightening can also cause a problem. (in addition to over seating during the bearing install process) The front is to be torqued to no more than 65 ft lbs and the rear 100-109 ft lbs. (on my 2010 touring bike) This is why it's very important to have a quality, calibrated torque wrench. You can frig up a lot of components if a cheap torque wrench decides to let you down.
Last edited by Lowcountry Joe; Mar 9, 2013 at 06:35 PM.