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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #21  
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Rode my 09 Ultra from Pa. to Alaska and back last summer. Changed the tires and wheel bearings and never looked back. The bearings that came out looked as good as the ones that were installed. I am at the point of not wasting so much time always thinking my wheel bearings are going bad every time I ride. Sometimes these forums tend to make us all worry too much...I think
 
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Nomadmax
So on the rear the primary bearing (on an abs bike is the abs bearing) gets seated all the way. Flip it over, put in the spacer and install the pulley side bearing until the spacer doesn't have side to side slop.

For the front the proceedure is the same starting on the left side.

Do I have it right????
Correct. Fully seat the ABS side first (that's the left in the front, right in the rear) then insert the internal spacer, then seat the non-ABS bearing. Seat the non-ABS bearing only far enough to contact the spacer and prevent lateral movement of the spacer...no more. It's important that you do not over tighten during this step. Over-tightening of the non-ABS bearing is a suspected contributor to early bearing failure of the non-ABS bearing. Remember to use plenty of assembly lube on the bearing case and silver anti-seize on the axle when you re-install the wheel. Remember to use a quality torque wrench for final torquing of the axle fasteners.

Edit note: The ABS bearing, in addition to being 3mm wider then the non-ABS bearing, will have an orange grease seal on one side and a dark green seal on the other. The dark green side faces out, or another way to put it, the orange grease seal side of the ABS bearing is installed toward the inside of the wheel. Keep the ABS bearing clear of magnetic fields such as magnetic parts bowls, speakers, old alternators, etc. or it can be compromised/damaged.
 

Last edited by Lowcountry Joe; Mar 13, 2013 at 09:12 PM. Reason: additional comment
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 08:50 PM
  #23  
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As always. Thanks Joe.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 01:44 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Lowcountry Joe
Correct. Install the ABS side first (that's the left in the front, right in the rear, install the internal spacer, then seat the other bearing. Seat only far enough to prevent side to side movement of the spacer...no more. Use plenty of assembly lube on the bearing case and silver anti-seize on the axle when you reinstall the wheel.
How much play do you leave?
This is why I wrote to check with light against the back of a spatula or the 0.03mm gap. You stop worrying when you know you got it right
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 02:14 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Wreckman
Rode my 09 Ultra from Pa. to Alaska and back last summer. Changed the tires and wheel bearings and never looked back. The bearings that came out looked as good as the ones that were installed. I am at the point of not wasting so much time always thinking my wheel bearings are going bad every time I ride. Sometimes these forums tend to make us all worry too much...I think
Yup, as I said, I knew mine went bad after only 10k miles, but have put another 7k on em. Not gonna stop you on the side of the road, but its kind of sad something as basic as wheel bearings would wear out so quickly on a machine as overpriced as our Harleys are.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 03:59 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by flatblackbastard
Yup, as I said, I knew mine went bad after only 10k miles, but have put another 7k on em. Not gonna stop you on the side of the road, but its kind of sad something as basic as wheel bearings would wear out so quickly on a machine as overpriced as our Harleys are.
Basic service life of our wheel bearings under light load and no high pressure rinse is 10,000,000 revolutions. This corresponds to a minimum of 12,000 miles before you should start to investigate.
The only exception to such common sense can come from a defect in the machining process. Systematically check smooth rotation and presence of a light drag from the lip-rings of all bearings every time you take something apart and keep a few spares after the 10K mark.
 

Last edited by Expat1; Mar 13, 2013 at 04:03 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 07:43 AM
  #27  
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I just googled something like Harley wheel bearing change and found a pretty good YouTube vid. [
QUOTE=flatblackbastard;11021152]So I'm pretty sure my bearings were toasted at around 10K miles and not any better at 17K....Just makes hands-free a bitch cuz i like to facebook and play farmville and **** when Im on long boring rides. My girl gots wobbley knees now.

Seriously, I'm a handy guy and have good tools. I'm no master mech, but prefer to do most of my own work with the help of the forums and my shop manual. You all have me second guessing installing my own ABS bearings. Problem is, I dont have faith the shop is going to do much better than me with my own time and love for my scoot. Give a guy a confident pep talk here....I need some words of encouragement to start my wheel project.[/QUOTE]
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Expat1
How much play do you leave?
This is why I wrote to check with light against the back of a spatula or the 0.03mm gap. You stop worrying when you know you got it right
I can't measure to .03 mm, but fortunately you don't have to.

The ABS bearing installs and seats at the bottom of a milled channel therefore it can be installed only so far then it stops. Then I install the non-abs bearings until they are just touching the internal spacer. You will know when it's right. The internal spacer will no longer move laterally when you put your fingers through the bore of the bearing and try to slide it back and forth between the bearings. After bearing installation, try to turn the bores of the bearings to ensure that they are not binding in any way.

Here's some photos that may help illustrate what is what.

First, here is the ABS side of a rear 2010 Ultra wheel showing the milled area of the wheel where the ABS bearing seats:



And here is the milled area on the other side where the non-ABS bearing will be installed:



Here is what a rear bearing kit looks like, stacked the way it will be installed (bottom is right side of bike):



The photo below is of the bearing spacer in the middle, the ABS bearing on the right side oriented as it is to be installed, and the non-ABS bearing on the left side:



The spacer is quite robust with a wall thickness of 3.2 mm:



And the length of the rear spacer is 5.15 inches:



So there's a few pics of what's going on in the rear wheel. Things are very similar in the front.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:19 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by JKSHYT
Need to replace the wheel bearings on my 09 SG. What are you folks running aside from the stealership crap?

Thanks,
Just curious, How many miles do You have on Your Bike? I have 50K on My 08UC and so far no problems. Tech said the bearings were fine 2K ago when I had new tires put on.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 02:02 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Lowcountry Joe
I can't measure to .03 mm, but fortunately you don't have to.
For the sake of curiosity put a flashlight behind a flat spatula resting one side on a shim of 0.001" thick. You will easily perceive the light gradient.

Wheel bearings were already assembled like this 60 years ago, at least on my R51/3 BMW
 
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