Wheel Bearings
For the front the proceedure is the same starting on the left side.
Do I have it right????
Edit note: The ABS bearing, in addition to being 3mm wider then the non-ABS bearing, will have an orange grease seal on one side and a dark green seal on the other. The dark green side faces out, or another way to put it, the orange grease seal side of the ABS bearing is installed toward the inside of the wheel. Keep the ABS bearing clear of magnetic fields such as magnetic parts bowls, speakers, old alternators, etc. or it can be compromised/damaged.
Last edited by Lowcountry Joe; Mar 13, 2013 at 09:12 PM. Reason: additional comment
This is why I wrote to check with light against the back of a spatula or the 0.03mm gap. You stop worrying when you know you got it right
The only exception to such common sense can come from a defect in the machining process. Systematically check smooth rotation and presence of a light drag from the lip-rings of all bearings every time you take something apart and keep a few spares after the 10K mark.
Last edited by Expat1; Mar 13, 2013 at 04:03 AM.
QUOTE=flatblackbastard;11021152]So I'm pretty sure my bearings were toasted at around 10K miles and not any better at 17K....Just makes hands-free a bitch cuz i like to facebook and play farmville and **** when Im on long boring rides. My girl gots wobbley knees now.
Seriously, I'm a handy guy and have good tools. I'm no master mech, but prefer to do most of my own work with the help of the forums and my shop manual. You all have me second guessing installing my own ABS bearings. Problem is, I dont have faith the shop is going to do much better than me with my own time and love for my scoot. Give a guy a confident pep talk here....I need some words of encouragement to start my wheel project.[/QUOTE]
The ABS bearing installs and seats at the bottom of a milled channel therefore it can be installed only so far then it stops. Then I install the non-abs bearings until they are just touching the internal spacer. You will know when it's right. The internal spacer will no longer move laterally when you put your fingers through the bore of the bearing and try to slide it back and forth between the bearings. After bearing installation, try to turn the bores of the bearings to ensure that they are not binding in any way.
Here's some photos that may help illustrate what is what.
First, here is the ABS side of a rear 2010 Ultra wheel showing the milled area of the wheel where the ABS bearing seats:
And here is the milled area on the other side where the non-ABS bearing will be installed:

Here is what a rear bearing kit looks like, stacked the way it will be installed (bottom is right side of bike):
The photo below is of the bearing spacer in the middle, the ABS bearing on the right side oriented as it is to be installed, and the non-ABS bearing on the left side:
The spacer is quite robust with a wall thickness of 3.2 mm:
And the length of the rear spacer is 5.15 inches:
So there's a few pics of what's going on in the rear wheel. Things are very similar in the front.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Wheel bearings were already assembled like this 60 years ago, at least on my R51/3 BMW



