Thanks in advance! I am looking very seriously at a 2001 Screaming Eagle Road Glide tomorrow morning. 40k, really clean. Has Reinharts, K&N filter, and a PC III. I know about the M/M EFI, and this one seems like it has been well taken care of. The owner prepped it for Sturgis last season with new fork seals, brakes, tires, & cam chain tensioners. I'm thinking that is the EFI isn't spot on, at the price i can get it for, I'll throw a Zipper's kit on it. I've heard that I need to look for a hairline crack on the swingarm, but am not sure what side or where. Anything else I need to consider? Thanks!!!

 

Don't have any knowledge to add but if you don't get it answered here may try cvo harley.

 

Anybody have anything I should look for on a 2001 in general?

 

read my thread and it will show you most things that could be wrong.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...g-a-flhpi.html

i'm usually very picky about what i purchase and let my gaurd down on this bike because i wanted another project to get my knowledge back up on harley's

next bike will be a low mile one. while 40k isn't bad. it can open a can of worms if the maintenance wasn't kept up.

main things i would check for concern:

rust on frame. defiantely on the tail section and upper front

check for oil seepage around the jugs and rocker box's

wheel bearing end play (try and wiggle the wheel side to side from the top)

wiring, pull the seat and check for any cut wires or redneck engineering

dry rot tires

check oil in trans and engine

fuel gauge probably won't work, they suck anyways

and if you're real serious, bring a jack and check the swing arm bushing for play. also the drive belt. that's a big chore to replace either


hope that helps
mike

 

Same question asked here on a virtually identical bike. Check it out.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/screa...oad-glide.html

Mine is the absolute the best Harley I've ever owned. The 99 to 02 motors are the only Twin Cams with a hot forged crank and the Timken Lefty bearing so they are without question the strongest bottom ends of the Twin Cam era,

Because of that I went with gear drive cams (Andrews 26,) and eliminated trhe tensioner issue forever.

The area 1/2" in front of the axle on both the top and bottom of the swingarm, ( either side,) is the weak spot on the swingarm. Mine did crack and I had it repaired with a TIG weld and a 1/2" x 1/2" patch over the repair so it's also now bulletproof.

My M&M injection is quirky on cold starts but is perfect when warm so I'm not complaining. The motor revs willingly and puts out about the same HP/TQ as a Stage I 110" CVO today.

Maybe this year I'll check out a stabilizer but apparently haven't felt the need to yet.

I just passed 125,000 on my '00 and it's my main transportation pretty much year round to work. I love my bike.

 

this article gives you worst case....

http://www.jamesrussellpublishing.bi...buyharley.html

 

http://www.jamesrussellpublishing.bi...buyharley.html[/quote]
Disregard most of what this guy has to say, he's just trying to sell his books. The rear swingarm & the cam tensioners are the main concerns & both can be easily upgraded.

 

The swingarm problem is mostly caused by using lowering blocks. If it doesn't have them by all means check closely, but it is unlikely there will be cracks IMHO. I have installed a later spec swingarm that gets around the problem and is also stiffer (why I fitted mine).

 

I would agree that lower blocks increase the stress on the swingarm, but simple age and billions of vibration pulses can't help much either. My swingarm broke at 119,600 miles just last year and at 6'2" I've never needed lowering blocks.

Check both sides regularly and fix if and when necessary. Or upgrade to an '02 and later swingarm as Gary did.

 

And I have too, although to get the stiffer stronger swingarm, rather than any failure of my original one. As a little fun I also added a Deuce rear wheel!