Ok guys I know this subject has been discussed but I cant find it in the touring section. I am wondering about engine temps on my touring bikes. I have a 2012 Electra Glide Classic with the 103 and stage 1 (V&H Dresser duals, Screamin Eagle mufflers, Power Commander 5 and high flo air filter kit) done on the bike. A buddy of mine has an 06 Roadglide (started life as a 96Cu In engine but built to a 107). We did a ride a few weeks ago and on the way back we got stuck in northern VA traffic!!! He said his engine was remaining a constaint temp of around 210 degrees and asked me about mine. My bike was going in between 255 and 270 and I noticed the way the engine was running changed also. It went from a smooth running engine to more of a bucking feeling. Apply some throttle and this leveled out for about 30 to 45 seconds and the bucking started again. Is this normal or should I have it checked out? I understood my softail alot more and the touring bike has thrown me for some loops. I think I understand them and something else starts!!!

 

That is normal. ......its called EITMS engine temperature management...it only controls rear cylinder as motor temp gets hot the rear cylinder is shut down with fuel and spark only pushing in cooler air. Due to the 45deg. angle of our motors you get the bucking feeling. When the light turns green or traffic starts up again just blip the throttle the rear cylinder fires back up and away you go no problems.

Harley-Davidson's air-cooled V-Twin remains a stubbornly anachronistic signature of the American motorcycle manufacturer, and its most potent expression comes in the form of the 110 cubic inch (1,803cc) Screamin' Eagle lump currently found in the CVO lineup. Producing 122 lb-ft of torque, this is the most powerful Harley engine to date; as such, an oil cooler can only go so in protecting this puppy from soaring temps.

How does Harley keep this mill from melting when mercury hits triple digits? One feature engineered into air-cooled Harley engines is a function called Rear Cylinder Cutout. Because the aft cylinder tends to run warmer since it doesn't benefit from the airflow that hits the front cylinder, RCC seeks to equalize the difference by shutting off fuel and spark to the back cylinder if the engine idles for more than 3 seconds above 288° F. Once the air-only mix drops the combustion chamber temperature to 275° F, normal operation resumes. RCC was introduced in 2008, and was actuated by a cable before the 2009 model year, when throttle-by-wire technology was introduced.

While automotive applications frequently implement cylinder deactivation for MPG improvements, we won't hold our breath for that functionality to be applied to bikes; after all, motorcyclists are usually more interested in staying cool than saving fuel.


Read more: Harley-Davidson Rear Cylinder Cutout Keeps Engines Cool - Popular Mechanics

 

GriffinDenim13FLHX I appreciate that information. I have heard people talking about that before but I thought I had to activate that rolling the throttle forward. That is truely good to know. I will make us of that from now on. That is another thing the dealer forgot to mention to me on this bike!!! The more I am learning about these bikes the more I am liking them!!! I miss the Deluxe but the touring world is so much nicer. The ride is better and also the comfort is there.

 

Ya no problem. I came from a softail and a world of difference to the Street Glide. Can't keep the smile off my face when I see it or ride it.
You can also look into some synthetic oil.
plug inserted here= AMSOIL will be my choice once I hit 1000 miles.
I have tried the Syn3 in my softail. But for the money might as well by Amsoil.
Not cheap but what on a HD is?
Just my $.02

Griff

 

Check out www.wardspartswerks.com or search these forums. no connection just a happy "cool" camper

 

I ONLY ran Amsoil in my softail from the time I got it until I traded it, and the guy that had it before me also used Amsoil since changing from Harley oil around 5K miles. My next oil change on my bike will be with Amsoil for sure. I know have 5K on the new bike.
I was worried about the bike temps because I want to chrome out the engine area like my old softail but I know adding those "covered" pieces of chrome will hold in the heat. I dont want to overheat the bike because of the chrome....

 

Same here.

 

Do you use this product? Or know someone that does? I assume it's water proof? Anyone actually see a change from using it? I like that it can stay on after you shut the motor down to still blow air over the jugs. Interesting.
Thanks for that link.

 

I have had these fans since the start of riding season. I know for a fact that they keep the engine cylinder head temp at least 30 degrees cooler. I was riding this past Sunday with the fans on and the cylinder head temp shown on my PV was 245-250. The next leg of the trip I turned the fans off and the temp jumped to 288 while moving! These engines run hot. Anyone saying they are running at 210 degrees without fans is measuring the temp someplace else other than the cylinder head. I would recommend Wards fans whole heartedly.

 

I believe I recall rolling the throttle forward can toggle the EITMS system on and off from its prior setting and there are settings in the ECU to control this system if you have a flash tuner to change them. Take a look at the owner or maintenance manuals.