Doug, excellent writeup. I'm day three of the EG to RG morph. I'm finding like you the "simple things" are the hardest: Correct parts or tools that you have to make yourself.

Scott

 

Excellent once again Doug. What you may not realize is that lots of us, myself included, wouldn't be able to attempt a job like this, even if it went smoothly.
I am however thinking about installing a HB 125, as I have one in the box and havn't gotten around to putting it on . Mostly wasn't sure if I could handle it. Now that I've seen what is involved in opening up the primary I'm pretty sure I can do it.
How do you like the HB 125 and how did the instal go?

 

Awesome post! Thanks for taking the time to explain in details and take pics. That took a lot of time and effort and will be very appreciated by someone, at some point. My stator toasted at 42K, lucky I still had the extended warranty but if it ever goes out, I'll be doing it myself. Thanks!

 

Need to finish this post up. Had a busy few days lately, so I didn't get around to posting. Long story short is that I've been back on the road for about a week. Everything is working well.

I did finally get a nice day, and was able to clear coat my front fender. Said fender in the kitchen getting all waxed up.....


A photo at night in the barn, with it all back together.....


Here are the two plugs that come out under the seat on the left side. One for the heated gear, and one for my new battery tender.....


Went out for about 45 minutes on Wednesday (last week). All worked well. Here are a couple of shots from the Western Carroll County rolling hills.....




That is Crouse Mill Road, one of my favorites, and definitely "one less traveled".

I was watching the volt gauge good, and it stayed right where it was supposed to. Got chased in by the rain you see in those gray clouds. Made it home just before the rain hit.

I like the red. Next will be my outer fairing, and I think it'll start looking pretty good then. No hurry though. I want to ride for a while after all this work.

I went ahead and bought a new battery, and put that in a couple of days ago. Figured that the old one had just about done it's duty, and it went through alot with the stator going out. I've read that 3 - 4 years is the time to change them out to reasonably be assured of not getting stranded (from the battery anyway). I also changed the primary fluid again to get any dust and leftover gunk out.

Went out again yesterday for a longer ride. The bike ran great. Was quite blustery. Headed for Thurmont, and planned to go west, up and over the mountain from there. I was met by snow flurries coming off the mountain, and headed back east towards home instead. No pics, didn't bring the camera. Everything electrical seemed to be working fine. And the shifter shaft seal area appears dry as a bone.

So, I'll (humbly) declare this repair complete and (at least for the time being) successful. The long and short of it is that it took longer than I wanted, and I had one really bad day in there. But....., I learned alot more about my bike, and if I ever had to do this or something similar again, I could do it much more quickly and efficiently.

Thanks again for all of the suggestions, insight, and encouragement.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference".

 

Wally,

Thanks for the kind words.

The HB-125 install shouldn't be too bad. I bet we could get you through it. You'll need theservice manual, and some basic tools.

Off the top of my head.....
[ul][*]A jack, blocks, or another way to get the bike up a little and level (I guess you could do it without, but it would be mighty difficult to do it while the bike is leaning left on the sidestand)[*]inch pounds torque wrench[*]torx 27 head[*]torx 40 head[*]clutch cover gasket[*]outer primary gasket[*]1 quart of your favorite primary fluid[*]2 new screws that connect the tensioner backplate to the inner case (Ican getthe part number if you need it)[*]basic wrenches/sockets/allen wrenches to get off the shifter levers and both left-side floorboards[/ul]
You maybe could get by re-using the old gaskets, but that's your call. And new gaskets will set you back $35 - $40 from the dealer. I read somewhere that said you could get cometic gaskets (good) for less at http://www.jirehcycles.com/(unfortunately after I bought my HD ones at the dealer). You'll have to check though.

I like having mine in there. I don't think it's absolutly necessary, but I feel it keeps the chain right where it should be. My opinion is that the stock tensioner setup, while physically easy to adjust, is hard to get just right.Not because it's hard to do, but because it's hard to know, through that little hole, if you actually have the right tension. Seems to me like the auto tensioner makes a difference in holding a steady, slow speed, in 1st or2nd gear. No slight surging/jerking like I remember before. Also, I never have any difficulty in finding neutral (I use synthetic trans fluid too).

Let us know if youdo it. We'll be here to help.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference".

 

Some one needs to put your post in the DIY section for reference. It was about the best step-by-step I've ever seen. Thanks for posting it.
Freaking awesome.....

lp

 

Doug, thanks for the info. I'm all set up for the job, I've got a fairly well outfited shop. I'm not to bad at this stuff as long asI take my time, I'm expecting to handle it without too much trouble.
Knowing you are here for me is a big plus. One thing I'm not 100% on is the 2 new scres that connect the tensioner backplate to the inner primary.
I'll asume they are the ones in plain view in the piture about 1/4 of the way down page 2, with the words "Took a little break. Back to work" right below.
Why new screws?
And the part #'s please would be a big help.

 

Wally,

Yeah. The two screws that hold the little up and down tensioner mount plate. You can clearly see that on the picture you mentioned. The plate has that long screw sticking out that the tensioner mounts to. If I recall, you have to remove that plate to put that longer screw in for the HB-125. I think that the HB-125 install instructions, or maybe my manual,show them as phillips screws, but mine (03) were torx 40, I think.

Before I did the initial HB-125 install a year and a half ago, I read somewhere to replace those screws. They come with lock-tite already on them. I just went to the dealer and picked them up. Only a buck or two for both, I think.

I'll post the part number for you tomorrow, when I get to my book.

Also forgot in the last post, you'll need some threadlocker with pipe sealer for when you put the primary drain plug back in. The manual gives the official name of the stuff. I'll post any other stuff you'll need if I think about it.

Would love to see a few pictures as you progress. Let us know if you run into any issues.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference".

 

Wally,

Just for clarification.....



Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference".

 

I don't know when I'll do that, but, here are some pictures I took a month ago with my latest mods.
Shorter windshield, 8" Fastaire.
Bullet turn signals, I really diggin' them.
Sloped brake light lens
D&D Fatcat
Also I removed the rails around the bags.

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y99...rst_widget.pbw