OK... so I will be installing some 12" apes in a near distant future. I have read several post about how to do it, and this post is not one of them. What I am looking for is simply a list of things to get/do/advice...

#1. Bushings... I have read to a whole bunch of different things about this and I have been advised to buy the HD SE bushings. I am open to suggestions

#2. Wires... some cut the wires, some replace the wires, and I have heard the NAMs wires might not be a good choice. I would like to just replace wires if possible. Looking for suggestions.

#3. Brake lines... Money is an issue, a lot of kits in the $300, so they are a bit out of the Q right now. I saw the Burly kit for $180 and might run with those.

#4. Advice... Did I miss anything? Anything you encountered along the way, that might be helpful when I start the project.

Again, I have done the searching, I have done the reading, and now I am asking the questions. If you want to put a link on here regarding the information above I greatly appreciate it, but if you want to flame me because I am asking questions without doing a more advance search, save your typing skills for someone else. I'm just looking for some friendly advice as this is my first time doing this.

Thanks again for all you help and support

L8Rs
Rick

 

Is this for your 2009 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic?

 

remember to shim the front brake switch ( you have manual right?)

some have good results soldering wires--- I myself have had soldered wires break right where the tinning ends- this is due to vibrations and may not happen right away but months or years down the road ( I solder for a living)---someone smarter than me pointed out that manufacturers crimp connectors on the wiring, just for this reason- vibrations

make sure any brake lines used are DOT rated ( some stainless lines are for 'show use")

bushings- I have carpal tunnel ( soldering...) and arthritis- the best bushings I have found for me are the stock bushing- I can tune vibrations in or out with the preload. But my experience does not extend to bars higher than about 8"-
poly bushings are stiff and transfer the vibrations really well to the bars.
others have great results with the poly-


it really is an individual thing

mike

 

Wiring....http://www.namzcustomcycleproducts.c...07_up.html#top

Brake Lines....Magnum Shielding two piece brake lines

Poly Bar Bushings.....Drag Specialties, same as SE only cheaper

 

My winter project is to add the stereo control switches to my Road King which already has 12.5 Apes on it. Not a project I'm looking forward to do. The wires were very tight the first time and adding 4 more wires to each side isn't going to help.

My Plan is to use Expandable Wire & Cable sleeving over the entire length of the wire and leave it about 3 feet longer than wires.

The Expandable Wire & Cable sleeving is like a chines finger trap. my thinking is to use the sleeving as a wire pull threw the handle bars, plus it will protect the wiring inside the handle bar and threw the wiring holes.

We will find out.

 

Thanks for the inputs so far... it is greatly appreciated

 

1. Generic poly from J&P Cycles.
2. Namz all the way.
3. If you have a disc on each side of your front wheel, you can get by with a longer upper line instead of replacing the entire line.
4. Pop the cap off the brake reservoir and the bleeder bolts and let it drain the night before to get as much fluid out of the lines as possible. That way, when you take them apart, there is less of a chance of dripping corrosive brake fluid on your paint.
HTH.

 

If you're tight on money eliminate the bushings. I know they are not super expensive but I find them unneeded. If you were going taller yeah.

I've run 4-5 sets of 12-13" bars and never needed them. Some folks change them and that's cool but your bars are not going to hit the fairing or come flying off if you don't. In the past when I did change them to something stiffer the only thing I really got out of it was more vibration...

Just me. YMMV.

lp

 

I left the stock bushings on my 07 and i can't really tell that it negatively affected anything even after them being on the bike for close to 80000 miles...I say leave the stock ones., they help isolate some vibrations.I also have Arthritis and carpal issues and circulation issues....I installed 14" Yaffee Classic Bagger apes...I used the Gooderidge Ebony 9"+ brake lines and a 6" over clutch cable from Motion Pro....
I got my bars, clutch cable and brake lines from Eastern Performance cycles at a very reasonable price and free shipping.
Can't help you with wires as mine is still wired externally..

 

What's the reason for replacing the brake lines from the calibers to the ABS module (if he has it)???? For looks maybe but that's about it unless I'm missing something....

A longer line from the module to the M/C on the bars, yes, if he's going with higher bars then 12"'s.....

If you are going to change that line, unless you want to get air into your ABS module, don't drain the line out. Remove the banjo fitting from the M/C and keep the line up in the air higher then the module. Using plenty of rags around the fitting/module, remove the fitting on the module and immediately install the fitting from the new line. I used this method and after properly bleeding the brakes, no air was present in the module (ABS light never came while moving).