I'm going to give it a test ride tomorrow. I know there are electronic issues. It has a VIN Err and fuel gauge or not registering on the cap or instrument. I'll ground it (jump) and see if anything changes.
It has an aftermarket tuner that I took out of the loop and nothing changed. From here it's about sorting out those issues and testing ride quality, before moving on to the full fenders and paint.

 

So you PCed them without taking them apart?

 

No. I removed the tires, bands, rotors, pulley, and bearings. I check both rims on the trueing stand before having them coated. I installed new bearings and put the rotors on so the new bands, tubes, and tires could be put on and balanced. I took the pictures after bringing them home from having the tires done. Also had the belt guard, floorboards (after taking the pads off), and jiffy stand coated.

 

My concern has been if you ever have to tighten the spokes in the future

 

Valid point, that I thought about. I know it's a possible need, but in reality, how many people (average) Heritage riders or others have ever touched their spokes, other than for cleaning. Mosty don't even really clean them. Unless you specifically ask the shops don't check them when doing tires. It's just a risk I took.

 

It's not something I'd do but it's easier than pulling the wheel apart and PCing then reassembly.. Plus doing it that way, you will more than likely not need to re-tighten the spokes after. I more in favor of PCing the rim and hub, cleaning them up and using a set of SS spokes. In that case, they pretty much need a retighten of the spokes.. I also prefer aluminum rims as they are a little stiffer..

 

It has taken a while but the wheel is complete. The rotor is not a fancy rotor but it is better than OEM IMHO.
I think that the wheel turned out well.