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I need to borrow a cam bearing puller. (The job is done)
I would appreciate it if anybody would borrow me their puller for a day so I can get the cam upgrade project on my '98 FXDS finished up. I've looked at the prices and I am amazed at what they cost.
I'll send it back the day after I'm done with it along with a check to cover your shipping cost and time. How does $20.00 sound?. I think my reputation around here is good enough that you can trust me.
I think I saw somewhere on this site that AutoZone may have something to loan you. Thought I saw the part number for it as well. They usally loan them for a large deposit.
Thanks for the replies. In my searching, I actually found something about a Blind Hole Puller Set (#27128) that supposedly can be rented from Autozone (and I would imagine other auto parts stores). They're supposed to rent them free of charge - you just have to put down a large deposit which is refunded when the tool is returned.
From what I've read it's supposed to work perfectly for removing both the cam bearing and the bushing in the cam cover. I haven't actually checked this out yet, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed...
I never thought about checking the auto stores for the puller. I'll bring the Torrington bearing with me and see what they can do. I checked with the local indy and HD dealer and they want me to bring the bike to them. Sorry, but my bike dosen't go on a trailer.
I just changed the cam on my 96 Ultra Classic. My local autozone loaned my the puller. I had to put a $20 deposit down and when I was done I got all the deposit back. It worked great and saved me a bunch of $$$$$$$$$$$
Tim in Houston
I stopped at the local Auto Zone on the way home from work today and all they had was a 2 jaw pilot bearing puller attachment (manufacturer is OEM and pn. is 27059). i've got to build a slide hammer for it tommorrow then I'll let you know how it works.
The best part is they told me to deposit $18.00 and either return it or just keep it. If it works I'm keeping it.
Yes, just $20. It was a slide hammer that attached to the bearing puller. The puller had two "prongs" that you adjusted to the inside diameter of the bearing. Then you attach the slide and give it a couple of sharp impacts. The important part is to make sure the "prongs" are inside the bearing and not catching on the inside of the engine case.
As a side note. When installing the Torrington bearing, I used the old cam with the new bearing on the end. Line the cam gear up with the driver gear and breather gear for proper alignment then use a rubber hammer to tap the bearing into place. The bearing must be seated completly, so after getting it started straight, I pulled the cam out, placed a couple of shims on the end then tapped the bearing in the rest of the way. The shims are the same diameter of the bearing so they can push the bearing to seat without the cam stiking the bearing housing. It was a very easy project.
Luckily I've done this project before. Summer '05 We went to Sturgis and I had a tappet blow out on me about 20 miles before Sturgis. I managed to get it to the dealer where they tore it down and found it had taken out the rear lobe of the cam and the hydraulic lifter needles were scattered throughout the motor. We ended up renting a U-Haul trailer to get it home where I completely tore the engine down, even splitting the cases to find those needles. I found all of them, the last one I found was in the bottom of the crank case. that's easy getting the cam bearing out when you've got the cases split, simply tap it with a socket.
Any way... Oct. '05 I had an accident and the bike was completely demolished with only 2,000 miles on the new parts so before I let the Ins. co. take it away I removed all the goodies I put in there which is what is going into this motor (except the Torrington bearing, that's new, along with the gaskets).
I still have the bearing press I made for the last bike that I'll be using. Thanks for the idea tho' it's a good one.
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