Cam Upgrade - Stock '07 Engine
With the MoCo under pressure from the EPA to tune for emissions, do you think the grind on the stock cams could be improved. Are there any aftermarket 'Step-Up' cams to optimize breathing for a stock engine. You know like an RV cam and the like...
'07 FLHX
'07 FLHX
Found this so there are cams for a stock TC88. I wouldn't want the HyperCharger though.
http://www.kuryakyn.com/wtproducts.a...gn=Dyno+Charts
Nothing for my '07 FLHX.
Any recommendations? [sm=feedback.gif]
http://www.kuryakyn.com/wtproducts.a...gn=Dyno+Charts
Nothing for my '07 FLHX.
Any recommendations? [sm=feedback.gif]
I've been watching this forum and several others for news on '07 builds. I haven't seen anyone do aircleaner, exhaust, and cams. The problem is that the "as built"compression on these motors is 9 to 1. Even the smallest cam like an andrews 21 wants more compression than that. I just hopped up my '07 dyna, but I took the heads off, cut the cylinders .016" to zero the deck height, cut the heads .020" and used .030" head gaskets. This brought compression to 9.7, right in the sweet spot for the andrews 37 cams that I used. You might gain some torque down low by using a small cam like andrews 21, but I'm not sure it would be worth the expense. The heads will have to come off to make any real gains above a stage 1.
A cam upgrade and a good tune will provide a noticeable improvement in your '07. I have an '04 EG that had a bone stock 88" motor with Rinehart TD's and SE a/c. The bike dynoed at 74 hp and 78 torque before I installed HQ-0034 cams. The bike, with a very preliminary, tune is at 84hp and 93 torque. With stock pipes, the torque number would actually be higher. A stock 88, according to the HD 2007 P&A catalog, page 536, provides about 60 hp and 70 torque.
The '07 96" motors are set-up so lean they would benefit even more than my '04 from more cam and a good tune. We tune with the SERT, and if you hooked up a SERT to a stock '07 96" motor the air fuel table has a lot of red with a/f set at 14.5, red meaning not to lean the bike any more. With more cam, you can richen the mixture and advance the timing to increase hp and torque. Comparatively speaking, you probably have more to gain from a cam swap on an '07 than I did on the '04 and, since youhave better factory heads on your bike than I have on mine, would probably see proportionately more improvement.
The '07 96" motors are set-up so lean they would benefit even more than my '04 from more cam and a good tune. We tune with the SERT, and if you hooked up a SERT to a stock '07 96" motor the air fuel table has a lot of red with a/f set at 14.5, red meaning not to lean the bike any more. With more cam, you can richen the mixture and advance the timing to increase hp and torque. Comparatively speaking, you probably have more to gain from a cam swap on an '07 than I did on the '04 and, since youhave better factory heads on your bike than I have on mine, would probably see proportionately more improvement.
I've done a lot of research myself on upgradingmy bike...07 Street Glide.After contemplating a lot of different options, I've decided on a mild upgrade netting some pretty significant improvements. 07 engines run at 9.2 CR, the sweet spot for the Andrews 26 with just about stock lift. That, with an otherwise stage 1 upgrade and a SERT tuneyou'll go from 72-74HP and 80 lbs to 82-84 HP and low 90's on torque. Thekey with this upgrade is the power band.....from 2-5K........resulting in a very quick bagger. Key ismatching the upgrade pieces and the tune. Figure about $400-$500 for the SERTdyno tune.Big bangfor the buck. After this, improvements get pretty expensive (removing heads, decking, porting.........). I figured I could have had a 105/110 machine ( 103, 37, 9.7CR baisley porting, milling. ect) but it would cost around $3K....Now I'll spend about 1/3 of that and for now, live with less.
I really don't believe that the '07's are at 9.2 to 1. I say this because I've seen the build notes from maybe a dozen people who have checked deck height or quench on their motor. Using the solder through the spark plug hole method of checking quench, most have found it to be .070" or more. Another way of blueprinting a motor is to pull the heads, shim the headbolts, torque the cylinders down, roll the pistons across tdc, and check the dimension of piston top versus top of cylinder. I've seen ten people do this and they range from .010" to .020" down the hole.My motor was .016". If you'll plug these number into the compression calculator of your choice, you'll see that compression is 9.0 or less. Really just trying to help and hope I don't come off as a smart aleck :>
No problem here.....I've read inthe owner's manual it's 9.2 and have heard from several people that the 96 is higher than the 88 and varies around 9.2 or so...some a little higher some a little lower.
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I believe that one would gain more useable power by a: raising the compression to 9.8 throughcuttingthe heads and cylinders and using .030" head gaskets than b: bolting in a cam, all other things being equal. And it would be cheaper because you'd only buy gaskets and maybe pushrods.
I had the andrews 26 g cams installed to help with mid-range passing & the worry of cam chain problems,at a 14 to 1 F/A ratio,i'm at75 HP &81 ft lbs of torque which aren't high numbers but it still gets 40-42 mpg and its a lot quicker. I know it would make higher numbers if I leaned on the fuel but at the cost of MPG,was it worth the cost? I don't think so for what I gained.






