Which jet kit and Air filter to use??
Thanks
Watch your plugs, if they are white, go up one main and pilot jet.
First off , thanks for the help I will be ordering the K&N today. Now I have a couple more questions.
How do I go about finding out exactly what I have in my carb now?
Second, is it a waste of time and money to put a jet kit in or does it help with the performance? I have all intentions of upgrading more as I get the time.
THanks again.
Most jet kits are in the 75.00 to 90.00 range. Jets are about 5.00 each and a needle change is about 8.00 if I remember correctly.
As far as air cleaner kits, the two most popular seem to be the HD Screaming Eagle and the Ness Big Sucker. The new Screaming Eagle does not use a K&N filter, however, there is a K&N filter element available for it. Since your bike is a 98 model, you might be able to find a Screaming Eagle kit that has the K&N Filter.
The Ness Big Sucker comes with the K&N the last I knew. I believe you will find that either system will flow about the same amount of air.
These are just opinions and methods that I have found to work. Others will have ideas that have worked equally well for them.
Regards,
Bill
Do a web search on K&N filters and you'll see what I mean. Cummins actually tells you not to use them, because the oil will damage the electronics.
The advantage to the SE kit has always been the increase air flow from the open can. You can achieve the same results by attacking the backing plate with a 1" hole saw. Just be sure to drill the hole outside the circel of the filter. Same power increase - free.
I agree with the comments about jet kits. You end up with a lot of extra parts that you've payed big bux for. Without the benifit of an A:F meter, you have to use the on the road tuning methods that bikers have been using for decades. There are plenty of web sites that detail the procedure.
I disagree with part of your statement. The K&N will flow more air than the stock unit because of the greater height (nearly twice as tall as the stock filter) as will the zippers upgrade that increases air flow over the K&N because of the 1 " greater height also. The oil in the K&N if over done can damage MAF circuits and some others possibly, but then again so can anything that is over done too. The key here is to use the oil properly and even sparingly and let it wick into the filter element and not oil it till it's red and almost dripping
.There is cleaning and oiling instructions on the K&N site as well as the DIY forum.
This is where more than one filter element comes in handy. You can clean the spare , let it dry (never force dry it) and oil it a little at a time till it wicks into the gauze in the element.
The K&N will support up to 100/100 with no problems, where as the stocker would not.
Also cutting holes in the backing plate does very little to help as the stock element restricts the air flow even after this is done.
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This will probably open up a can of worms. But there's no evidence that a K&N filter improves power. There is some evidence that over time - multiple washings and oilings - it actually costs power. The only advantage to a gauze filter is that it will save you a little money if you ride a lot and own the bike for years. Repalcement paper filters are actually very good, and not that expensive if you get them from an indy or large mail order company.
Do a web search on K&N filters and you'll see what I mean. Cummins actually tells you not to use them, because the oil will damage the electronics.
The advantage to the SE kit has always been the increase air flow from the open can. You can achieve the same results by attacking the backing plate with a 1" hole saw. Just be sure to drill the hole outside the circel of the filter. Same power increase - free.
I agree with the comments about jet kits. You end up with a lot of extra parts that you've payed big bux for. Without the benifit of an A:F meter, you have to use the on the road tuning methods that bikers have been using for decades. There are plenty of web sites that detail the procedure.
Every independant test done to date shows better flow with the K&N over a stock paper filter.
And NO it does not take a larger surface of the K&N to produce more flow. Most applications of the K&N use the same size filter (surface area) as the stock one and does increase flow.
The biggest problem is people do not read, understand or believe that the fuel mixture MUST be adjusted when replacing a stock filter with a K&N. Carbs are less of a problem than EFI. Most EFI systems are a lot more precise on fuel mixture throughout the RPM range, thus better economy over a carb system, AND easier to mess up when changing flow. Some EFI systems are more sensitive than others.
If you take a top of the line crotch rocket off the showroom floor, replace the stock air cleaner with a K&N and do not remap it, you will burn the valves within 1000 miles. My rocket redlined a 14500 RPM, and developed 105 hp from a 600cc engine. I am sure that is more sensitive than a Harley EFI bike, but the concept is the same.
If you do not adjust your fuel mixture when increasing airflow, you will not get the performance increase and will damage your engine over time. How much time? That depends on the amount of change and how sensitive your EFI system is.
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, because the oil will damage the electronics.
.
Regards,
Bill
You are an advocate of raising the CV carb needle 2 washer thicknesses to allow for the installation of a low restriction air cleaners and flow through pipes. Use a 46 low speed jet and adjust mix. I put in a Dyno jet kit and although the EG 05 runs okay my mileage dropped to about 36 miles to a gallon. If I go to your suggestion, what of the dyno jet kit should should I keep in the carb. Will the enlarged hole in the slide be a problem, what about the light weight spring etc.
thanks


