Did the OEM forward Controls last week
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Joined: Nov 2007
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Did the OEM forward Controls last week
I took every ones advice and did it my self. I did not have to split the primary at all. First I took the shift lever off and slid the shaft to the inside and used a pnumatic hack saw with a normal hacksaw blade and guided it with my finger and riped right through the shaft and pulled it out. I did have to unplug the spark plug wires and move them out of the way. I then loosened the trans shifter arm and with a 90 degree screwdriver I was able to pry the splines open a little bit. I tiped the top of the shifter arm towards the engine and there was enough clearance to sneak it out. The new shaft was already was never compressed so I did not have to pry it at all I just put it down in there at an angel and it slid right on no problem and I did not have to force anything it went right together about an hour and a half.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
RE: Did the OEM forward Controls last week
ORIGINAL: Frozen Crome
I took every ones advice and did it my self. I did not have to split the primary at all. First I took the shift lever off and slid the shaft to the inside and used a pnumatic hack saw with a normal hacksaw blade and guided it with my finger and riped right through the shaft and pulled it out. I did have to unplug the spark plug wires and move them out of the way. I then loosened the trans shifter arm and with a 90 degree screwdriver I was able to pry the splines open a little bit. I tiped the top of the shifter arm towards the engine and there was enough clearance to sneak it out. The new shaft was already was never compressed so I did not have to pry it at all I just put it down in there at an angel and it slid right on no problem and I did not have to force anything it went right together about an hour and a half.
I took every ones advice and did it my self. I did not have to split the primary at all. First I took the shift lever off and slid the shaft to the inside and used a pnumatic hack saw with a normal hacksaw blade and guided it with my finger and riped right through the shaft and pulled it out. I did have to unplug the spark plug wires and move them out of the way. I then loosened the trans shifter arm and with a 90 degree screwdriver I was able to pry the splines open a little bit. I tiped the top of the shifter arm towards the engine and there was enough clearance to sneak it out. The new shaft was already was never compressed so I did not have to pry it at all I just put it down in there at an angel and it slid right on no problem and I did not have to force anything it went right together about an hour and a half.
ORIGINAL: soup48
What are you going to do with the holes that are on the iner and outer covers. Don't let water get in the holes. Be sure that you plug the holes.
What are you going to do with the holes that are on the iner and outer covers. Don't let water get in the holes. Be sure that you plug the holes.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 580
Likes: 2
Actuallyusing the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod willsit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
You can leave the holes open if you like because the two mating through holes are sealed together.
You can leave the holes open if you like because the two mating through holes are sealed together.
I'm just wondering, because I'll be installing forwards this spring and I want to make sure I have everything covered.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
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WS6......I must be missing something. I can see how the outer primary hole could be sealed by capping it. How is the inner primary hole sealed off? I'm not sure what you mean by the "two mating through holes are sealed together". How are they sealed together? I'm just wondering, because I'll be installing forwards this spring and I want to make sure I have everything covered.
I'm just wondering, because I'll be installing forwards this spring and I want to make sure I have everything covered.When the outer primary is mounted to the inner, it creates a "seal between the two cases.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
WS6......I must be missing something. I can see how the outer primary hole could be sealed by capping it. How is the inner primary hole sealed off? I'm not sure what you mean by the "two mating through holes are sealed together". How are they sealed together? I'm just wondering, because I'll be installing forwards this spring and I want to make sure I have everything covered.
I'm just wondering, because I'll be installing forwards this spring and I want to make sure I have everything covered.
Originally Posted by Ws6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 580
Likes: 2
WS6 and JayFromPa...... It just hit me as to what you guys were saying. If I'm understanding correctly, there is a boss on the inside of the outer primary cover that mates up with the boss on the inner primary. The two bosses have some kind of a gasket/seal between them. I couldn't find anything in the manual that would give me a hint as to why oil wouldn't leak out. It all makes sense now.
Thanks for the help! Got to love this forum!!!
Thanks for the help! Got to love this forum!!!
