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Did the OEM forward Controls last week

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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 09:31 AM
  #11  
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Wowy
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Default I'm Too Late

I wish I read this yesterday; I just removed the Clutch assembly. I like the Hack Saw idea and leaving the original Shift Lever. Do I need to be concerned how the Clutch Plates go back in? I marked everything but, is it critical on how they go back in? Also does anyone know the torque setting for the clutch bolts, Chain Tensioner and the Outer Primary Cover Bolts?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #12  
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What if you change the outer primary to chrome one with no hole? How do you plug the inner primary mid shifter hole?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 09:06 AM
  #13  
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Default

Originally Posted by Mads
What if you change the outer primary to chrome one with no hole? How do you plug the inner primary mid shifter hole?
I did this. I plugged my hole with a thick bolt, couple washers and high temp sealant. Used red loctite to make sure the bolt can't come loose. Has worked great for thousands of miles.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:03 AM
  #14  
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From: Texas
Default Old Shaft is Sealed

Dont forget that the old shaft tube is completely sealed therefore the simple plug provided is sufficient with some of the Lucite sealer. Also the original Shifter Arm works excellent. I did my 07 Street Bob last month and now have put 500+ miles since , with no leaks and the plug has stayed put perfectly.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:34 AM
  #15  
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Wowy,

With the original shifter arm are you having trouble finding neutral at all? I myself wouldn't mind a shorter shifter throw but I dont want it TOO short.

Kanzig
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 09:44 AM
  #16  
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Wowy
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From: Texas
Default Shifter Arm

I hardly noticed any difference in shifting. Neutral was little harder to find initially but within a day or two it was second nature. I think it is just one of those new things you learn and it becomes the norm. The rest of the gears stayed the same as far the Shift Throw. I really like that the Shifter Arm Linkage stays at a flat 90 degrees and it looks symmetrical to the rest of the parts around it. I have found no negetive results in doing my Forward Controls in this manner.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 10:15 AM
  #17  
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883 IRON
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Question for you, do you have to remove your foot off the peg to down shift? Mine has the mid controls and I have to(maybe my lack of dexterity and age), it seems a tad uncomfortable and I wonder if the angle of the leg for forward controls eliminates this??
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 10:24 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 883 IRON
Question for you, do you have to remove your foot off the peg to down shift? Mine has the mid controls and I have to(maybe my lack of dexterity and age), it seems a tad uncomfortable and I wonder if the angle of the leg for forward controls eliminates this??
You can adjust your shift lever down, but it you go to low, then you won't be able to get your foot under it to up shift.

Here's another alternative: http://www.newwayshifter.com/
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 07:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by WS6 Formula
You can adjust your shift lever down, but it you go to low, then you won't be able to get your foot under it to up shift.

Here's another alternative: http://www.newwayshifter.com/

Nice, has anyone tried this with forward controls on a dyna?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 09:11 AM
  #20  
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Default Damaged hub washer

I'm not a noob to wrenching but I did make a moronic mistake (didnt wait for the shop manual). The 07 SB is a friends. We were doing forwards. 1st time removing inner primary for me. Asked about rotation of mainshaft nut (not on this forum), even the local dealer. They told us it was normal rotation (righty tighty etc.) April fools! So we f@#^ed up the washers under the mainshaft nut (in the clutch hub) HD doesnt sell these items separately, surprise surprise we need to buy the whole cutch hub to get 2 washers. I looked for a used hub, none to be found. Any other ideas?
 
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