Brake Squeal
#1
07-12-2005, 01:52 PM
Brake Squeal
Submitted by: TCSTD
Curing Disc Brake Squeal
Almost everyone has experienced disc brake squeal at one time or another. What causes this? It's simplyh a high frequency vibration that creates a harmonic between the caliper body or piston and the back of one or more brake pads (just like vocal cords). It usually occurs often at lower speeds as the bike is slowing to a halt, very annoying and embarrassing when your high dollar hog squeals like a pig as you come to a stopat a busy intersection.
Several things can initiate the squeal. It can be caused by pads that have become glazedf rom extended braking, incorrect pad compound for the type of riding you do, or contamination of the surface, as from dirt, sand, or accumulated brake dust.
The surest cure is to perform a double fixo n the pads themselves. First, camber the leading edges of the pads at a 45 degree ange using a beltsander or bench grinder (see illustration). This helps the pad to glide along the rotor's surface more smoothly, sort of like the curves of a sled's rails. Second, use anti-squeal shims on the back of the pads. These usually come in the form of thing peel and stick aluminum sheets that you simply cut to fit the back of the pads. They work by actually absorbing the vibration and isolating the two harder metals from each other. Anti-squeal shims also come in other more exoctic compounds (like rubber, fiberglas, or Teflon), but I find the aluminum ones work find and cost the least. You can find them at most auto parts stores.
You may have seen or used a thick blue or red liquied anti-squeal compound that you apply to the backs of the pads. These products offer a temporary solution at best, and leave plenty of room for error (not to mention possibly fouling your pads). The can help if applied properly and allowed to cure thoroughly before reinstalling the pads, but I strongly recommend using the shim type products. While the pads are of, it never hurts to lightly sand the surface to remove any glazing. And of course, always check pad wear and brake fluid level whenever you disassemble your brakes. Also be sure to grease the caliper mounting pins (if applicable on your model), as dry pins can actually contribute to brake squeal. And remember to test brakes before playing in traffic.
Reference: http://moneycentral.communities.msn....ypix/tow4.msnw
Curing Disc Brake Squeal
Almost everyone has experienced disc brake squeal at one time or another. What causes this? It's simplyh a high frequency vibration that creates a harmonic between the caliper body or piston and the back of one or more brake pads (just like vocal cords). It usually occurs often at lower speeds as the bike is slowing to a halt, very annoying and embarrassing when your high dollar hog squeals like a pig as you come to a stopat a busy intersection.
Several things can initiate the squeal. It can be caused by pads that have become glazedf rom extended braking, incorrect pad compound for the type of riding you do, or contamination of the surface, as from dirt, sand, or accumulated brake dust.
The surest cure is to perform a double fixo n the pads themselves. First, camber the leading edges of the pads at a 45 degree ange using a beltsander or bench grinder (see illustration). This helps the pad to glide along the rotor's surface more smoothly, sort of like the curves of a sled's rails. Second, use anti-squeal shims on the back of the pads. These usually come in the form of thing peel and stick aluminum sheets that you simply cut to fit the back of the pads. They work by actually absorbing the vibration and isolating the two harder metals from each other. Anti-squeal shims also come in other more exoctic compounds (like rubber, fiberglas, or Teflon), but I find the aluminum ones work find and cost the least. You can find them at most auto parts stores.
You may have seen or used a thick blue or red liquied anti-squeal compound that you apply to the backs of the pads. These products offer a temporary solution at best, and leave plenty of room for error (not to mention possibly fouling your pads). The can help if applied properly and allowed to cure thoroughly before reinstalling the pads, but I strongly recommend using the shim type products. While the pads are of, it never hurts to lightly sand the surface to remove any glazing. And of course, always check pad wear and brake fluid level whenever you disassemble your brakes. Also be sure to grease the caliper mounting pins (if applicable on your model), as dry pins can actually contribute to brake squeal. And remember to test brakes before playing in traffic.
Reference: http://moneycentral.communities.msn....ypix/tow4.msnw
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
