Andreani Group Fork Cartridges
Tourer
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 251
Likes: 25
From: Avoca
San Diego Customs put a set of these in Hot Bike's tracker sportster a couple of issues back and I thought the same thing when they got to the lathe part.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 4,294
From: Northeast, NJ
Being the dunce I am, I'm not understanding what is getting lathed down. Is it the length of the tube, or the width? Using a Dremel, I can understand how the length can be cut through, but not clear on how a Dremel would slim down the width......or my Dremel kung fu is not up to par.
Tourer
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 251
Likes: 25
From: Avoca
Being the dunce I am, I'm not understanding what is getting lathed down. Is it the length of the tube, or the width? Using a Dremel, I can understand how the length can be cut through, but not clear on how a Dremel would slim down the width......or my Dremel kung fu is not up to par.
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 11
From: The Whale's Vagina
Being the dunce I am, I'm not understanding what is getting lathed down. Is it the length of the tube, or the width? Using a Dremel, I can understand how the length can be cut through, but not clear on how a Dremel would slim down the width......or my Dremel kung fu is not up to par.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 4,294
From: Northeast, NJ
Squid, what rear shocks are you running these days?
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 11
From: The Whale's Vagina
After reading the Hot Bike/SDC article, I don't think I allotted enough time today anyway.
More to follow after I get new seals and tools needed.
Progressive 970s.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 11
From: The Whale's Vagina
The Install
Im assuming anyone else deciding to tackle this already knows how to remove their forks, and change the seals, so Im leaving out the steps necessary for those things.
1. Remove the forks from the trees, disassemble, drain, and remove all stock internals. Save the bushings and seals assuming theyre in good shape. If not, have new ones ready; otherwise, nothing else will be reused. I spent a little extra time cleaning the inside of the tube and slider, making them nice and shiny again.
2. The Andreani instructions say the next step requires a lathe, but David at Fast Bike said a hand grinder works just fine, and I can vouch for that. I used a grinding attachment on a hand held drill.
3. Remove the outer split bushing (save it), clamp up the tube and grind away the rolled lip holding in the internal bushing. I took it really slow on the first one just being super careful, and it still only took about 15 minutes. The second tube took me less than 5 minutes.
4. Once you can see the separation between the bushing and the tube wall, use a long pole/pvc/rod/whatever and GENTLY tap the bushing out. I used an old lacrosse stick with the head removed and a rubber mallet. I hit it too hard the first time and shot it and a trail of dirty oil across my garage, so take it easy.
5. Reassemble the fork tube and slider. **Dont forget to put the outer split bushing back in the end of the tube before you drive the seals back in.** I added an extra 3 hours to my day because I forgot and then had to get the bushing guide out of the slider, destroying it in the process, then had to drive out to the dealership to get another one.
6. Insert the Andreani cartridge, and fasten it using the 12mm end bolt, aka seat pipe screw (recommend a new crash washer). This part is a little tricky because the cartridge will spin with the end bolt once its hand tight. You have the try and keep the cartridge and slider stationary while tightening the bolt. Torque spec is 132 INCH pounds for that bolt. If you dont get it torqued close to that, you will leak fork oil down there (another 2 hours wasted by this guy). I had the same problem with the Progressive kit. David said he gets it to grab by using a 3/8 impact wrench with a quick spin. I dont have one of those, so I got my wife to hold the slider steady, while I pulled up on the cartridge with one hand keeping as much tension as I could, and tightened the bolt with the other.
7. Push the tube all the way down into the slider and clamp the assembly upright for the oil pouring. The cartridge is preassembled, so you need to remove the fork caps (be careful of the needle valve), spacers and springs before adding oil. Use a fork oil measuring tool like Motion Pros to get it right. The Italian spec sheet specified oil level to 100mm (livello olio). It worked out to be about ž of the quart sized bottle.
a. NOTE: Fast Bike recommends Ohlins R&T 43 fork oil, P/N 03109-01. Im an Amsoil Shock Therapy believer and have easy access to it, so thats what I used (#5). David said it would be fine. The viscosity rating is 15.9 for the Amsoil #5. The Ohlins R&T is 19, so theoretically the rebound will be faster for the Amsoil #5. (Amsoil #10 is 31.8 BTW.)
8. Pump the cartridge several times to get rid of any air in the system, then recheck the level and add oil as necessary.
9. Reassemble the cartridge (spring, valve cap, spacers, lock nut, needle valve/fork cap). Turn the lock nut down far enough in order to set the fork cap level (about ž).
10. Turn the fork cap onto the threaded tube 4 complete turns, no more/no less. This puts the rebound/compression adjustment in the proper position.
11. Tighten the lock nut.
12. Slide the tube up to the cartridge cap and hand tighten.
13. Insert back into the tree, torque the lower pinch bolt (30-35 ft lbs), wrench-tighten the fork cap/preload adjuster, then torque the upper pinch bolt (30-35 ft lbs).
14. Reassemble the rest of your front end, set your sag, and go.
(I use the Race Tech method.)
I didnt have much time for a good road test since it was so late when I finished. I didnt even bother setting my sag and just took off with everything at factory setting. The quick 10 minute ride down the road and out on the freeway was pretty awesome. Ill give it a good wringing out before I post a detailed performance review, but initial assessment is Wow. Brake dive is completely gone and rebound is nearly perfect. I cant wait to get everything dialed in properly and go hit Palomar Mountain.
1. Remove the forks from the trees, disassemble, drain, and remove all stock internals. Save the bushings and seals assuming theyre in good shape. If not, have new ones ready; otherwise, nothing else will be reused. I spent a little extra time cleaning the inside of the tube and slider, making them nice and shiny again.
2. The Andreani instructions say the next step requires a lathe, but David at Fast Bike said a hand grinder works just fine, and I can vouch for that. I used a grinding attachment on a hand held drill.
3. Remove the outer split bushing (save it), clamp up the tube and grind away the rolled lip holding in the internal bushing. I took it really slow on the first one just being super careful, and it still only took about 15 minutes. The second tube took me less than 5 minutes.
4. Once you can see the separation between the bushing and the tube wall, use a long pole/pvc/rod/whatever and GENTLY tap the bushing out. I used an old lacrosse stick with the head removed and a rubber mallet. I hit it too hard the first time and shot it and a trail of dirty oil across my garage, so take it easy.
5. Reassemble the fork tube and slider. **Dont forget to put the outer split bushing back in the end of the tube before you drive the seals back in.** I added an extra 3 hours to my day because I forgot and then had to get the bushing guide out of the slider, destroying it in the process, then had to drive out to the dealership to get another one.
6. Insert the Andreani cartridge, and fasten it using the 12mm end bolt, aka seat pipe screw (recommend a new crash washer). This part is a little tricky because the cartridge will spin with the end bolt once its hand tight. You have the try and keep the cartridge and slider stationary while tightening the bolt. Torque spec is 132 INCH pounds for that bolt. If you dont get it torqued close to that, you will leak fork oil down there (another 2 hours wasted by this guy). I had the same problem with the Progressive kit. David said he gets it to grab by using a 3/8 impact wrench with a quick spin. I dont have one of those, so I got my wife to hold the slider steady, while I pulled up on the cartridge with one hand keeping as much tension as I could, and tightened the bolt with the other.
7. Push the tube all the way down into the slider and clamp the assembly upright for the oil pouring. The cartridge is preassembled, so you need to remove the fork caps (be careful of the needle valve), spacers and springs before adding oil. Use a fork oil measuring tool like Motion Pros to get it right. The Italian spec sheet specified oil level to 100mm (livello olio). It worked out to be about ž of the quart sized bottle.
a. NOTE: Fast Bike recommends Ohlins R&T 43 fork oil, P/N 03109-01. Im an Amsoil Shock Therapy believer and have easy access to it, so thats what I used (#5). David said it would be fine. The viscosity rating is 15.9 for the Amsoil #5. The Ohlins R&T is 19, so theoretically the rebound will be faster for the Amsoil #5. (Amsoil #10 is 31.8 BTW.)
8. Pump the cartridge several times to get rid of any air in the system, then recheck the level and add oil as necessary.
9. Reassemble the cartridge (spring, valve cap, spacers, lock nut, needle valve/fork cap). Turn the lock nut down far enough in order to set the fork cap level (about ž).
10. Turn the fork cap onto the threaded tube 4 complete turns, no more/no less. This puts the rebound/compression adjustment in the proper position.
11. Tighten the lock nut.
12. Slide the tube up to the cartridge cap and hand tighten.
13. Insert back into the tree, torque the lower pinch bolt (30-35 ft lbs), wrench-tighten the fork cap/preload adjuster, then torque the upper pinch bolt (30-35 ft lbs).
14. Reassemble the rest of your front end, set your sag, and go.
(I use the Race Tech method.)
I didnt have much time for a good road test since it was so late when I finished. I didnt even bother setting my sag and just took off with everything at factory setting. The quick 10 minute ride down the road and out on the freeway was pretty awesome. Ill give it a good wringing out before I post a detailed performance review, but initial assessment is Wow. Brake dive is completely gone and rebound is nearly perfect. I cant wait to get everything dialed in properly and go hit Palomar Mountain.
Last edited by SquidHead; Apr 4, 2015 at 07:36 AM. Reason: Revised procedure