This has me baffled. 07 DYNA, 103, with one of the aftermarket heavy duty pressure plates and discs. (can't remember which one was put in). I have adjusted the clutch down below, oil in the primary and adjusted the cable. Bike still wants to creep a little when stopped. More so first thing the morning. I can hold it still with my feet on the ground when stopped at a light. Maybe adjust the clutch a little more in? I think factory says 1/2 to 3/4 turn after bottoming on the pressure plate. Anyone know if these after market pressure plates require a little tighter adjustment? Maybe go another 1/4 turn in? Dont want to wear the clutch pre maturly. Thanks

 

Needs tweaked somewhere...What does the lever feel like? If it has too much free play, you should adjust the inline adjuster to take up the slack.

 

What it says is to turn the adjuster until you feel some resistance and then back it off 1/2 to 1 turn. You will also see the diaphragm start to pull out when the adjuster gets tight.

 

What he said! you are supposed to just barely feel the pressure plate and back out 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, then adjust your clutch cable.
So adjust that, but don't be surprised if your big twin to still wants to creep in gear. It's worse when cold and do not try to start in gear, that's when you really feel it, and it is normal to a certain degree. If you have aftermarket plates it should still adjust the same way. I bet you have a Barnett clutch spring.

 

Do this cold. Once bottomed and make sure you are at bottom (zero clearance) by screwing the screw in till in touches and another turn in to deburr threads and then back out and back in till it touches, back out half turn and squeeze the lever slightly, and back in and you will fill it bottom quicker and now let off the lever and bottom screw. Do this a few time till you get the fill of really were you have it at no clearance. Now back out 3/4 turn. The less you back out the more the lever has to break the gap between the drive and driven plates. However, when it gets hot, you need the cold 3/4 turn to insure clutch throw-out bearing does not spin or break clutch slightly and cause it to slip under load. Now lock it down and adjust the cable at grip to just a match thickness of play with bars checked at both ends of travel. If it drags now, your clutch plates are so warped, you need to replace the clutch.

 

Thank you gental men... I will re-adjust in the AM and see what happens

 

I had this exact problem after installing my Andrews 30T pulley along with the Barnett clutch spring. After reading a ton about clutch adjustment, I decided to adjust the "freeplay" at the clutch lever first because it is the easiest to do. It was set close to a nickle size gap which is fine but I reduced it down closer to a dime, and now no more creeping with the clutch pulled in. Try that first, then if you decide to take off the derby and adjust it that way, I would stay closer to 1/2 turn vs 3/4 or full turn.

 

Fixed my problem! Thanks Went through the service manual adjustments, was worried about the tranny, but a little clutch care and proper adjustment (the dime did the trick and I'm back on the road

2000 Road King trike conversion

 

Do what has been stated here already, the basket and cable adjustment for sure....yes do it cold! also to note, If you changed the type of primary fluid you normally use it could affect it. I experienced it before...changing the type of fluid can dictate the amount you need...a few ounces more than needed could cause that clutch to drag with a different oil...it's possible.