You should be able to roll the bike around with the clutch pulled in. Vet, stop drinking the MoCo's "It's normal" Kool-Aid
Clutch adjustment problem
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Chula Vista, Ca.
Clutch adjustment problem
Feels like the clutch won't disengage. I tried adjusting the clutch at the Derby and the cable according to the manual. Everything seemed to go fine. Inspected the inner and outer ramp and the ***** and all are fine, no wear at all. Other than pulling off the primary cover, I'm a bit baffled.
If I'm understanding this right, when the bike is in gear, I should be able to pull the clutch handle and roll the bike around, the clutch should disengage. That's not happening, it feels like it's staying engaged. The fluid level is normal.
Anyone else had this problem? Looking for advice. Thanks.
If I'm understanding this right, when the bike is in gear, I should be able to pull the clutch handle and roll the bike around, the clutch should disengage. That's not happening, it feels like it's staying engaged. The fluid level is normal.
Anyone else had this problem? Looking for advice. Thanks.
It has something to do with being a "wet" clutch. It isn't like a car All three of mine do the same thing when cold Can't roll the road king at all unless it's in neutral. Don't worry about it it's normal.
Last edited by vet767; Dec 28, 2010 at 08:52 AM. Reason: poor spelling
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Elyria, OH
I do notice that it is a bit more difficult to push the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in than it is when it is in neutral, but it can still be moved.
When you adjusted the clutch, did you have slack in the cable? I would turn the cable adjustment in quite a bit before you adjust the clutch. Also I believe the book says to turn the screw 1/2 turn out after you feel the resistance, I found it necessary to only go about 1/4 or 1/3 turn. Make sure you hold the center screw in position while you tighten the locking nut. Then adjust the slack in your cable.
When you adjusted the clutch, did you have slack in the cable? I would turn the cable adjustment in quite a bit before you adjust the clutch. Also I believe the book says to turn the screw 1/2 turn out after you feel the resistance, I found it necessary to only go about 1/4 or 1/3 turn. Make sure you hold the center screw in position while you tighten the locking nut. Then adjust the slack in your cable.
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Chula Vista, Ca.
I had slack in the cable, backed off the cable adjuster all the way. I turned the adjuster out (counterclockwise) until resistance was felt, then backed off 1/4 turn. Then, at the cable, I took out the slack until I had a 1/16 of an inch play at the ferrule. All went well with that, it was right by the book. I did read that sometimes the plates can hang up and stick together and need to be "broken free". Not sure why that would happen or how I would break them free. I'm trying to exhaust all options before I pull that cover.
Thanks for the help guys, keep the ideas coming.
Thanks for the help guys, keep the ideas coming.
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2010
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most adjustments are as i remember:
make sure everything is lose before adjusting as to get a more accurate adjustment.
at the clutch hub turn the screw in till it stops the turn it back out 1/2 to a full turn
then for the free play you want 1/8".
and to be honest you going to get resistance from the bike when it in gear. it should still be able to move but will be slightly harder then if it was in natural. cause the gears are meshing. hope this helps let me know what happens
make sure everything is lose before adjusting as to get a more accurate adjustment.
at the clutch hub turn the screw in till it stops the turn it back out 1/2 to a full turn
then for the free play you want 1/8".
and to be honest you going to get resistance from the bike when it in gear. it should still be able to move but will be slightly harder then if it was in natural. cause the gears are meshing. hope this helps let me know what happens
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From: Elyria, OH
What year bike? Did it sit for a long period of time? Did the clutch work at all before you attempted to make the adjustment?
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Going to edit this post about breaking sticking plates........you'd probably have to wheel It In a high gear (ignition off) with the clutch pulled In,if the plates are sticking,the motor will try to turn over,when they break free you'll be able to push her more easily.
Last edited by Tommo; Dec 28, 2010 at 04:42 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Mission,BC.Canada
Evo clutches have a spring plate in the middle of the clutch pack. This middle spring can break and cause problems like you are describing. If you drain the primary fluid and it has brass colored particles in it, the spring is toast. I replaced my clutch pack, with an after market extra plate clutch pack.