Clutch wont disengage completely?
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: lebec, california
Clutch wont disengage completely?
This has me baffled. 07 DYNA, 103, with one of the aftermarket heavy duty pressure plates and discs. (can't remember which one was put in). I have adjusted the clutch down below, oil in the primary and adjusted the cable. Bike still wants to creep a little when stopped. More so first thing the morning. I can hold it still with my feet on the ground when stopped at a light. Maybe adjust the clutch a little more in? I think factory says 1/2 to 3/4 turn after bottoming on the pressure plate. Anyone know if these after market pressure plates require a little tighter adjustment? Maybe go another 1/4 turn in? Dont want to wear the clutch pre maturly. Thanks
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 168
From: Knoxville, Tn
Clutch Adjustment
What it says is to turn the adjuster until you feel some resistance and then back it off 1/2 to 1 turn. You will also see the diaphragm start to pull out when the adjuster gets tight.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,384
Likes: 12
From: Out on Deranged
So adjust that, but don't be surprised if your big twin to still wants to creep in gear. It's worse when cold and do not try to start in gear, that's when you really feel it, and it is normal to a certain degree. If you have aftermarket plates it should still adjust the same way. I bet you have a Barnett clutch spring.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,605
Likes: 6,438
From: Honah Lee
Do this cold. Once bottomed and make sure you are at bottom (zero clearance) by screwing the screw in till in touches and another turn in to deburr threads and then back out and back in till it touches, back out half turn and squeeze the lever slightly, and back in and you will fill it bottom quicker and now let off the lever and bottom screw. Do this a few time till you get the fill of really were you have it at no clearance. Now back out 3/4 turn. The less you back out the more the lever has to break the gap between the drive and driven plates. However, when it gets hot, you need the cold 3/4 turn to insure clutch throw-out bearing does not spin or break clutch slightly and cause it to slip under load. Now lock it down and adjust the cable at grip to just a match thickness of play with bars checked at both ends of travel. If it drags now, your clutch plates are so warped, you need to replace the clutch.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
I had this exact problem after installing my Andrews 30T pulley along with the Barnett clutch spring. After reading a ton about clutch adjustment, I decided to adjust the "freeplay" at the clutch lever first because it is the easiest to do. It was set close to a nickle size gap which is fine but I reduced it down closer to a dime, and now no more creeping with the clutch pulled in. Try that first, then if you decide to take off the derby and adjust it that way, I would stay closer to 1/2 turn vs 3/4 or full turn.
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Stage I
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 1
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Fixed my problem! Thanks 
Went through the service manual adjustments, was worried about the tranny, but a little clutch care and proper adjustment (the dime did the trick and I'm back on the road
2000 Road King trike conversion
Went through the service manual adjustments, was worried about the tranny, but a little clutch care and proper adjustment (the dime did the trick and I'm back on the road2000 Road King trike conversion
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 791
Likes: 386
From: New York
Do what has been stated here already, the basket and cable adjustment for sure....yes do it cold! also to note, If you changed the type of primary fluid you normally use it could affect it. I experienced it before...changing the type of fluid can dictate the amount you need...a few ounces more than needed could cause that clutch to drag with a different oil...it's possible.
Last edited by Craigny; Feb 27, 2020 at 09:34 AM.
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