After all last riding season stalling out while cruising along and intermittent times when fuel pump would not cycle even though the lights and gauge comes on. I believe to have it narrowed down to the following items ignition module, ignition switch, crank sensor and iac. Does anyone out there tell which of these would create the following symptons. So far i have replaced battery, both relays. fuel pump, plugs and coil. still done it ont the bench today were the fuel pump would not cut in. We pulled the maxi fuse and back in and the fuel pump cycled.Help because its quite a dilema. Any advice would be appreciated all electrical contacts all 3 ground wires have cleaned done with dialectric grease

 

Done a test today to test regulator, while bike was running we disconnected the battery and it shut off. My buddy says that regulator was also hot to the touch, sounds like regulator to me. I will order 1 from dealership tomorrow when i head in to pick up my new signal lights.

 

Disconnecting the battery is not a good test because the system is not designed to run without the battery...the battery is the primary capacitor that smooths out the DC ripple. Your EFI and firing system will not work properly with that much AC ripple on the line.

Put a DC voltmeter across the battery terminals and crank it up...the voltage should not drop below 9.6 vdc as it cranks over, typically it will stay at or above 10 vdc for a good battery, and the voltage across the battery terminals must be at least 13.5 vdc for the battery to recharge properly.

 

The crank position sensor sends the trigger signal to the ECM to get the plugs firing when they need to if the sensor is erratic so will the firing of the plugs. I've seen cars do the same with a bad sensor, run for a while and quit. Search this on the forum, there is a way of reading these out but I forgot the values.

 

My buddy started the bike with the voltage regulator disconnected and battery charger connected to the bike it ran flawlessly.

 

There you go then. You found the solution and now we have an archive if this happens to us. You just happen to have been the Ginny pig that the electrical gremlin found first. Glad you worked out a solution.

 

Voltage regulator or stator...or both...ya need to find out because if it is a bad vr, then you might toast the new one if the stator is bad...

Get a manual and a multimeter and troubleshoot the system thoroughly...clean and visually check and tighten all of the charging and starting system cables...do it once, do it right.

Good luck.

 

Tks to all the help will be going back to work for 14 days. I will update when i return from labrador.

 

If the fuel pump will not cycle with a key on cycle, it's either the system relay or a connection or of course the small brush connection in the fuel pump. There is a 3 second timer in the relay. Quite often, the system and start relay are the same part number and interchangeable since the timer is not used in the start relay side. Sound like you have a problem in a connection or wire since you replaced all those parts. Did the fuel sock look good in the tank? Pull the throttle position sensor and make sure it's not covered with metal trash. While you are voltage checking at battery, flip the meter to AC and make sure no AC is coming thru regulator. Never unhook battery while it is running. It should be protected just as it is from hooking battery wrong direction but do not test that way. A bad signal light box (TSM) or alarm,signal box (TSSM) if you have an alarm will cause this problem since that is where the bank angle switch is which cuts fuel pump off. You problem may very well be more then one thing which is the nightmare.