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"It's also possible to adjust the chain with the engine running. Carefully load it up (at operating temp) while the bike is idling in neutral until you hear a slight whine. Then slowly back the adjuster off until the whine dissapears. For peace of mind, you can back the adjuster off a further 1/8th of a turn from this point, & then lock up the nut on the adjuster. Perfect noiseless shifts & no more missing gears...
By 'loading up' I mean slowly increase the preload on the tensioner. No need to have the rear wheel turning or even on a lift. Only the engine running, as the whine is audible with the bike standing still. Might be an even clearer whine if you GENTLY twist the throttle between each turn of the adjuster. Take it for a test drive after, & take the 2 adjusting wrenches with you, coz if you got it wrong, it's only a matter of slackening the lock-nut & making a fine tuning. Saved me a lot of time in the past."
I've tuned mine by ear since the first adjustment because I couldn't alleviate the whine when I thought it was adjusted to spec. I've actually been wondering if I was correct in doing so and just never thought to ask anyone.
I'm sure that method is fine, but the primary chain isn't exactly rocket science. If you just stick your finger in there and push up you'll know if it is too tight or too loose. A lot of overthinking goes on when it comes to bikes.
If this is a legitimate tip, this sounds way easier than pulling the plugs, jacking it up, rotating the rear wheel in fifth gear to find the tight spot and then adjusting it. Plus if you've never heard the whine, or at least don't think you have, like me. This will give you a reference to go from. I mean lets face the powertrain on these bikes make a lot of 'normal' noises.
I adjusted my sporty both ways...it was kinda hard to distinguish the "whine" but when I rechecked it the traditional way it seemed to be spot on. So that is how I did it for the next 2 years. The only thing I didn't like is the mess it made with oil
I've done it by ear without opening the chain inspection cover, just take the wrenches with me and go for a long ride to get the engine case good and hot. Then tighten a bit and test ride some more. When you start to hear the whine then back it off a bit. Eventually you'll find the optimum with no whine and an 'easy neutral' I've tried a 'cold' adjustment to specs and never really got good success, plus as mentioned, this method is easier.
One caveat: if your engine sprocket (compensator) nut is loose, you'll never get this correct and you've got a bigger problem to worry about.
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