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and again, no proof that the cat is restrictive in any way. Just because somebody has a couple hundred thousand miles on their car and the engine is burning oil and the cat got clogged doesn't mean anything with regard to this conversation.
Somebody have a dyno chart with the ONLY change being getting rid of the cat....anybody......
Any internal combustion engine, properly tuned or not creates carbon during combustion. It's that black stuff in the end of your exhaust pipe. That black stuff went through your cat. Some of it stayed in your cat. More of it stays in your cat every mile you drive becoming less and less efficient every mile. Harley didnt want to put them there, they had to comply with EPA BS. They are not there to make your motor more efficient.
However, I dont think it is a good idea for us all to remove them, so no I do not have a dyno sheet, and it would make very little difference if I did for reasons previously stated, and YOU should for sure keep your catalyst in your exhaust.
Any internal combustion engine, properly tuned or not creates carbon during combustion. It's that black stuff in the end of your exhaust pipe. That black stuff went through your cat. Some of it stayed in your cat. More of it stays in your cat every mile you drive becoming less and less efficient every mile. Harley didnt want to put them there, they had to comply with EPA BS. They are not there to make your motor more efficient.
However, I dont think it is a good idea for us all to remove them, so no I do not have a dyno sheet, and it would make very little difference if I did for reasons previously stated, and YOU should for sure keep your catalyst in your exhaust.
Have a great Labor Day weekend everyone.!!!
I think it would make ALL the difference in the world if someone had a dyno test of stock vs. cat-less stock headers. That's the only way we'll KNOW if it's restrictive. I want to know and if it is, I would remove mine, too.
I removed mine and I'm very happy I did. My Rinehart 4" slipon on the right side was becoming discolored quickly due to the heat. Since the removal of the cat I have noticed no more discoloration than was on there before removal. Mine was strictly a heat issue, but the sound improvement is nice. I don't doubt the validity of having a cat in for various reasons, but I know way too many people who have removed them and put some major miles on their bikes with no issues what so ever. I agree a dyno sheet is the only proof in the pudding, so to speak, as far as any hp gains or any signifigant change. For now I'm all for catless!!!
Well OK then, I pulled my 2012 closed loop 15mm sensors, cat and headpipe ASM, added the Power Commander 5 and replaced pipes with V&H Power Duals for 2009 which included 18mm bings for the 09. I chose this as I have a bad habit of not ever being satisfied and wanting more power. When and if I ever replace the heads and cams on my 12 I will purchase the Power Commander Autotune which uses 18mm wide band O2 sensors. Remove the bung plugs and replace with Bosch 18mm O2's and I will have the ability for closed loop real time tuning after any performace upgrades
Good information and good followup questions. Looking at my options before I dive in.
Couple of things I have found: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...removal-3.html
pic of a window-cut collector... 2nd post down. From the picture, it looks as though the cat is a single block situated in the middle of the chamber. Judging by the size and position of the block it appears that it would be possible to remove all but the smallest remnants of material from the chamber using a spade bit. I could see being very dependent on the individual job; cat glued right to the very edge, spade bit tearing out the edges cleanly or cutting through and leaving remnants, etc.
That said, I don't see where the remnants (if any) would be large enough to pose an issue. I would say its worth a try for those on a tight budget.
Edit: Dyno chart
Best I can find so far. From FuelMoto website
"2010-2012 Electra Glide Ultra Limited and 103" PowerPak models:
Here is a dyno chart that compares the stock Ultra Limited 103" to the addition of the Jackpot 2/1/2 headpipe, everything else is stock" http://www.jackpotmufflers.com/limit...jackpot212.jpg
Well i bought a 2012 street gide headpipe here on the forum from a member. I decided that i wanted to try and drill it out as upposed to cutting it. Well it worked like Mark5 said it would. It took exactly an hour from start to clean up. Just took my time. I wound up burning up my dril. It was a 20 yr old craftsman. I guess it was all the side pressure used. I will get the rest out no problem. Couldnt believe it was that easy. I was a doubter before, and not any more.
Last edited by pontiac69; Sep 6, 2012 at 03:29 PM.
Somebody have a dyno chart with the ONLY change being getting rid of the cat....anybody......
i can give you part of the equation, when i got my 107 kit from fuelmoto, they do a before and after dyno run. before, i was running at 72hp/85tq. my setup was stock 2-1 (with cat removed), se ac, and v&h twin slash slip on.
so anyone able to fill in the 2nd half? a dyno run, with ac and slip ons, with the cat headpipe still?
What ever happened to the cross talk O2 sensor debate?
It died. The O2 sensors are before the cat in the collector and are able to talk before or after decat, if they actually do. some claim they talk however no discussion ended with proof that they only talk after decatting, just speculation.
I did the cut and gut on mine. I couldn't be happier with it. The heat issue from the cat was solved, and the more miles I roll on the stock pipes the better it sounds. Not overly loud, but you can hear it when I roll on the throttle, which is just what I wanted.
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