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Fwiw, that's what I used and it was a breeze. The sound is 1000% improved. LOUD! I had a friend ask me to turn it down because it was hurting his ears. But with no distortion.
JK... you don't need to try to tap into the speaker wires at the head unit, tap in at the speaker connectors on the pods. You can buy a wiring harness from Cycle Sounds that will plug right in to the stock connectors if you want to make life easy.
JK... you don't need to try to tap into the speaker wires at the head unit, tap in at the speaker connectors on the pods. You can buy a wiring harness from Cycle Sounds that will plug right in to the stock connectors if you want to make life easy.
I know the fairing front needs to come off. Do you need to to this to upgrade a 4 speaker 2014 Limited?
I've read a gazillion threads on amp upgrades and haven't seen anything on this, so "apologies in advance" if any of this has been discussed elsewhere. Here's the thing: on a 2015 Road Glide Special, I recently installed a RF PBR300X2 Amp, Polk Audio MM651's, and NVX-XPLOC2 line converter. The NVX converts high level speaker outputs to low-level RCA, which I preferred to use. I did what I think is a pretty nice installation, 100% soldered connections, power supply direct to battery, ground to bike chassis, remote turn-on wired to cigarette lighter power, etc. The set-up sounds considerably better than the OEM speakers and head unit, however I am having a few issues/concerns:
1. First, when I turn my ignition ON I hear two relatively loud "POPS" from the speakers, a second or two apart, when the amp starts up. Anyone else?
2. Secondly, my dealer was unable to "flash" my head unit - saying that the system is not "recognizing" any amp installations, and backing that up by saying that the HD-MOCO has written increasing sophisticated software into the systems, making it more and more difficult to flash head units with after-market upgrades. Anyone seen THIS?
I have no point of reference as to the potential of this setup (in other words "how good it SHOULD sound") and I am wondering if I am getting what I should out of it since the head unit is not flashed. All indications are that flashing the head unit to remove DSP pre-sets, or using a Magic Box to flatten the signal, are recommended so my concerns on that are:
3. Maybe remove the NVX line inverter, run high level speaker leads directly to the RF PBR300X2 Amp, and see if the head unit "recognizes" an amp installation - so it could be flashed?
4. Or .. Perhaps I could remove the NVX line converter and simply forego a head unit flash by installing a Magic Box? Basic logic tells me the flash is the way to go, rather than working 'backwards' with a Magic Box, but I'm no electrical engineer.
1. First, when I turn my ignition ON I hear two relatively loud "POPS" from the speakers, a second or two apart, when the amp starts up. Anyone else?
2. Secondly, my dealer was unable to "flash" my head unit - saying that the system is not "recognizing" any amp installations, and backing that up by saying that the HD-MOCO has written increasing sophisticated software into the systems, making it more and more difficult to flash head units with after-market upgrades. Anyone seen THIS?
I have no point of reference as to the potential of this setup (in other words "how good it SHOULD sound") and I am wondering if I am getting what I should out of it since the head unit is not flashed. All indications are that flashing the head unit to remove DSP pre-sets, or using a Magic Box to flatten the signal, are recommended so my concerns on that are:
3. Maybe remove the NVX line inverter, run high level speaker leads directly to the RF PBR300X2 Amp, and see if the head unit "recognizes" an amp installation - so it could be flashed?
4. Or .. Perhaps I could remove the NVX line converter and simply forego a head unit flash by installing a Magic Box? Basic logic tells me the flash is the way to go, rather than working 'backwards' with a Magic Box, but I'm no electrical engineer.
Any direction on this is appreciated, thanks!
Rob
#1- Yes, mine did that as well. I've since upgraded to a PN4.1000D and I can barely hear it now. I'm an amateur compared to some of the guys here so I don't know why it does that.
#2- Your dealer is correct, it will only recognize the Boom amp if installed. However they can flash it to the RF or BT suggested way. My tech took me in the back and I watched him do the flash, click a few buttons and done, takes a minute or two at best. I can't find the document that RF had for the radio flash so Here's something you can print for them (If I remember correctly RF suggested AMP 1-2 off, 8 speakers on); http://www.biketronics.com/content/2...mp%20Flash.pdf
#3-4 I have no idea, maybe haze or Gannicus will chime in. I ran mine with the high level connectors and I have the BT 7.1's in my fairing, the amp was plenty powerful and at 3/4 volume it was loud and clear at 80mph.
Thanks for the input, Scott - I will try a few different things and see if I can flush out some of these issues!
Glad to help, I've gotten plenty here myself so it's nice to pass it along.
03Custom883- I'm not sure, but all the time I've spent going over audio threads I think most here would recommend putting in better speakers, the Boom stuff I don't think can handle it.
[QUOTE=frashr;14182469...... I did what I think is a pretty nice installation, 100% soldered connections, power supply direct to battery, ground to bike chassis, remote turn-on wired to cigarette lighter power, etc. [/QUOTE]
really don't know if it will make a difference with the popping, but could cause other problems along the way, the Rockford PBR300 install instructions and also an advisory tells you to run ground wire all the way back to the battery, and not to use chassis ground.
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