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Greetings, this is my first post and may well have been answered in & by others previously.
I have a 2014 FLHTCU and want some upgrades without going crazy. Was thinking of adding a set of Fatshotz and a K&N Filter. After reading a bunch of earlier posts seems like everyone recommends adding a Fuel Manager/Tuner. Like the slipons there is a bunch out there. I would want if needed something simple to operate like an auto tuner.
So here are my questions:
1) Will a tuner really be beneficial?
2) If yes i looked at V&H FP3, Cobra Fi2000R, HD Street Pro ???
Adding a tuner would be the smart thing to do. As you are adding more air than its tuned for, you will be taking a risk of running lean. NOT a good thing.
I use the FP3 on my 14 SG. Easy to use and easy to connect. The nice thing is when your done, you remove it and does not need to stay installed.
Yes, adding a tuner would be best. I just got the Power Vision 2 for my 2014 FLHXS. I recommend checking out Fuel Moto. Great customer service and very knowledge folks. They will even provide a custom tune with the PV2 if you give them your exhaust and intake information.
By far, if you want the most complete ECM access, the TTS Mastertuner is the way to go. After you complete a data recording by just riding your bike for 30 minutes(no expensive dyno tunes-unless you want that), you take that collected data to make a tune for you bike. Not only does it tune your bikes air/fuel parameters, but it now gives you correct timing adjustments. Other things it can do that the others don't, calibrate your speedometer for larger/smaller tires, enable/disable components such as cruise control(if you added it on later) change your transmission gear settings such as if you add a baker 7 speed gear set( so indicator lights correspond and tuning). These are just some highlights of the TTS. It does a bunch more things like keeps your factory calibration in case you need to end it in for warranty issues.
I'm sure others are going to say other tuners are better, but it comes down to your level tinkery. If you just want a "plug and play" or you want to full access to get the last ounce out of your bike and dollar.
Current Ride:
Vivid Black 2014 Harley Davidson Street Glide Special.
(Main stock for now, with V&H HO slipons, King Tour Pac, with Upgraded Boom audio amp/speakers, Chrome CVO handle bar and the best of the best TTS Mastertuner.
Past Rides:
Big Blue Pearl 2012 Harley Davidson Road Glide.
Vivid Black 2008 Harley Davidson Street Glide.
Vivid Black 2006 Harley Davidson Street Glide.
2003 Black Honda ACE 750.
Kawasaki KZ1000
1986 Yamaha FZ 600.
1991 Honda CBR F2.
1991 Honda NX250
Cheers!
Last edited by fltrxcrzy; Mar 6, 2015 at 10:45 AM.
By far, if you want the most complete ECM access, the TTS Mastertuner is the way to go. After you complete a data recording by just riding your bike for 30 minutes(no expensive dyno tunes-unless you want that), you take that collected data to make a tune for you bike. Not only does it tune your bikes air/fuel parameters, but it now gives you correct timing adjustments. Other things it can do that the others don't, calibrate your speedometer for larger/smaller tires, enable/disable components such as cruise control(if you added it on later) change your transmission gear settings such as if you add a baker 7 speed gear set( so indicator lights correspond and tuning). These are just some highlights of the TTS. It does a bunch more things like keeps your factory calibration in case you need to end it in for warranty issues.
TTS Mastertune, PowerVision2, or FuelPak3 will each do the same thing.
The easiest one I've used it the PV2. TTS is a bit archaic because it uses a laptop to gather data, but is as good as any.
If I've typed it once, I bet I've typed it 20 times...
The FIRST thing a man should do when considering making changes is GET A TUNER. It will help a stock bike, and when you change pipes and or air cleaner, you're ready for it.
Can you run without a tuner? Yes.
Will you blow your engine up running without a tuner? Probably not.
Can you expect to get 50,000 miles out of your engine without a tuner? Most likely.
Will it run correctly without a tuner? No.
Dealers and their parts and service departments are a business, in business to sell motorcycles, and motorcycle parts and accessories. They tell you that you can get away without a tuner, because a LOT of guys won't come off the jack for a tuner, and they're afraid they'll lose sales if they tell you to get a tuner.
Changing the air flow without changing the VE tables is not beneficial. These bikes run lean from the factory, adding a more free flowing exhaust makes them run more lean.
Do what you want, I won't criticize, just trying to offer things to think about.
...but there is a reason I won't buy a used bike as my primary ride...
If you are only adding K&N filter to the stock A/C housing and adding slipons no tunes or Stage I download needed there is no gain neither loss in power except spending $$$.
If you are only adding K&N filter to the stock A/C housing and adding slipons no tunes or Stage I download needed there is no gain neither loss in power except spending $$$.
And making your bike run correctly. Changing the air flow without changing the VE tables is not beneficial. These bikes run lean from the factory, adding a more free flowing exhaust and filter element makes them run more lean.
And making your bike run correctly. Changing the air flow without changing the VE tables is not beneficial. These bikes run lean from the factory, adding a more free flowing exhaust and filter element makes them run more lean.
Stock air filter and K&N filter for stock replacement aren't too different except K&N washable and HD is disposable and the stock slipons are pretty free flowing except the headers are restrictive.My HD shop is not just a dealership but also good friend according to them if you leave stock A/C housing alone nothing else need to be done to the ECM. All my previous bikes ping under load and they were all heavily with $$$$ modified to run correctly as for as these bikes haven't had the issue so I'm leaving everything alone till then.
The Factory has the Air Fuel Ratio set at about 14.6:1, the closer the Air Fuel Ratio is to
14.0:1 the better the Bike will run.
I hear two sides to the story about, De-catting the hearer pipe or changing to an aftermarket
header. One guy says it will make the Bike run Lean, others say without a
Catalytic Converter the Bike runs rich. The more work you do to make the Bike
run properly and adding performance, the more you will need some tuning to
the Air Fuel Ratio.
Safetyman Chip has said many times before "The first thing you should do is
get a Tuner" he is correct, be it one of the aftermarket Tuners or some type of
XiED or Vied. So get some type of a Tuner first, ever on a stock Bike it will not
do anything other than have the engine run cooler. I have run my stock Bike for over
a year with a Tuning device on it so I could set my Air Fuel as close to 14.0:1 as I can.
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