Ape installation video for 14 Street Glide?
Once I had all of the wires ran and went to make the TBW connection, it wouldn't slide in. The wires were too long and the green connector wouldn't go past the point with the other wiring in there. I shortened the wires on the throttle control until it was about 2-3" long, soldered everything and it went together smoothly.
One thing to remember if you don't do a lot of wiring work is to stagger your cuts so that your connections don't stack up and add thickness to the wire bundle. I like them at least an inch or two from each other. Take your time and it's pretty straight forward. I'm a fanatic about organizing (cutting bolt boards from card board and labeling everything, taking pictures of every connector disassembled and where it is secured to the bike). These jobs take me longer than most people, but I was done in 6 hours and the install was as good or better than anything a dealership would have done.
If you find that your hydraulic line on the front brake is tight, remove it from the individual runner on the neck cable trough and run it with the wiring harness through the same trough. It gives you a couple extra inches and still looks factory.
taking the fairing off was a breeze, no need to take off stereo or any of the fairing components off like I saw it in some video.
So, I ordered wire extensions from P. Yaffee along with the bars (BIG MISTAKE about 10 1' wires and 3 heat-shrink tubes for $25) at first I thought oh well... what the heck - I need it, but after I went to the dealer - I found out that dealer has plug and play extensions for $30 so I bought those instead of "cutting and soldering head ache". Also dealer re4comended to change the raisers busshings to polyuritane ones so I bought those as well (around $40). Again clutch and break line are long enough to fit 12" bars. Factory switch control wires are long enough to reach thru the Yaffee 12" bars and stick out about half an inch, giving enough room to plug the extension wire kit.
At first it took me about 3 hours of cussing and swearing to pull wires thru the bars, but finally I got it. The important part is to tape the connectors to the string or chain (whatever you chose to pull it with) with electricians tape, and the key "ingredient" LUBE!!! I swear, I was trying for about 3 hours unsuccessfully, as soon as I put some grease on those wires - they went in really smooth. ALSO important detail: on the right side you will need to pull 2 wire sets: switch controls and throttle sensor. Switch controls goes from the grip towards the center of the bar, but throttle control wire goes from the center of the bar towards the grip. It will be really hard to put the chain/string in once you have one of the wires already inside the tube - therefore first I let 2 chains inside the handlebar and then I pulled wires thru one at the time. But again - I wasn't able to pull them thru without the grease. As funny as it sounds - "Use lube". Now with all that experience I think it would take me no longer then half an hour to do the wiring on the 12" bars. And that's without cutting and soldering - which I prefer, that way it looks more stock and less chance to f**k up something.
Hope it was helpful
Good luck.
The longest part of the install for me was running the wires in the bars. I thought I'd be slick and run the throttle and control wires at the same time. In the end I pulled the control harness first then the throttle. Lots of lube

I gotta say I'm beyond grateful for that video, saved me an easy $1k from the dealer.







