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Lighted switch pack

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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 10:12 PM
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Default Lighted switch pack

Just got done with the install of the lighted switch pack on my 15 Ultra Classic. All went well but have a couple questions for those that have it. First it appears the throttle side either does not illuminate the joystick or is not working correctly. All buttons illuminate other than the joystick on the right side. Second after doing the clutch interlock check I no longer am able to start bike in any gear. Bike has to be in neutral. While that is good safety wise, I feel there is something wrong. Redid the clutch lever install so maybe I am missing something? Any thoughts or knowledge appreciated. Oh and yes the bike started while in gear before with clutch activated, never tried it without clutch pulled in so can only assume it worked. TIA
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 04:43 AM
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I have a 2014 with lighted switches. The actual joysticks do not light up, only the arrows at the base of the joysticks. So, if you are saying that your actual left joystick is lighted, then, that is different.

Also - have you been reading the threads about making the cruise and PTT button switch? If you are planning to do that, it appears that you should make the change before going to the lighted switches. In a number of cases, it seems that "updated switches" are not changing with the original bike's ECM.

Example - my bike is a 14 and my lighted switches were done in 14 - so, the change worked. My friend's 14 had lighted switches installed in 17, and the change didn't work.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cycle7447
I have a 2014 with lighted switches. The actual joysticks do not light up, only the arrows at the base of the joysticks. So, if you are saying that your actual left joystick is lighted, then, that is different.

Also - have you been reading the threads about making the cruise and PTT button switch? If you are planning to do that, it appears that you should make the change before going to the lighted switches. In a number of cases, it seems that "updated switches" are not changing with the original bike's ECM.

Example - my bike is a 14 and my lighted switches were done in 14 - so, the change worked. My friend's 14 had lighted switches installed in 17, and the change didn't work.
Yeah I was talking about the arrows at the base, sorry for the confusion. And I have been reading the PTT button switch and did not or do not plan on doing that. No reason to, do not have the CB anyhow or use that feature. So it is stock, no changes. The switch pack that I bought had a date of 2015 on it if that mattered, so it is not the updated switch pack (at least I do not believe so).
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 07:26 AM
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OK - then, my adjusted response is - the arrows at the base of both light up.

Understand about your not having a CB - and therefore not wanting/needing to change.

Enjoy
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 09:38 AM
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Clutch switch should work fine. I'm guessing something is either loose, disconnected, or pinched.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 10:03 AM
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Check the left switch pack, i believe there's a switch in the back for your clutch interlock and if its not moving all the way in and releasing all the way out it may not know you have the clutch pulled in.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 01:57 PM
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Pull in the clutch in and try tapping on the clutch switch or pull outward with a small screw diver and see if it starts in gear, clutch switches going bad is common had mine replaced few weeks after I bought the bike. As for lighted the switches didn't have on my 15 Limited but came stock on the CVO to be honest I haven't looked at them yet.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sammer4u
Just got done with the install of the lighted switch pack on my 15 Ultra Classic. All went well but have a couple questions for those that have it. First it appears the throttle side either does not illuminate the joystick or is not working correctly. All buttons illuminate other than the joystick on the right side. Second after doing the clutch interlock check I no longer am able to start bike in any gear. Bike has to be in neutral. While that is good safety wise, I feel there is something wrong. Redid the clutch lever install so maybe I am missing something? Any thoughts or knowledge appreciated. Oh and yes the bike started while in gear before with clutch activated, never tried it without clutch pulled in so can only assume it worked. TIA
I installed the lighted switch packs on the 2017 I had. I had to return them for a number of elements that didn't illuminate. The second kit was better but still had one arrow that stayed dark. Pretty disappointed in the QC.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by LA VIC
I installed the lighted switch packs on the 2017 I had. I had to return them for a number of elements that didn't illuminate. The second kit was better but still had one arrow that stayed dark. Pretty disappointed in the QC.
Talked to the service department where the switches came from. The tech said after explaining what was happening, that the switches might be "defective". I was then transferred back to the parts desk and the parts manager was not in, so I have to wait till Monday to see what he has to say. I guess on the plus side, it took me less than 2 hours to install (slow going as first time I even got into the switches or removing the levers) the second time should be a bit quicker. A lot of wasted time on removing the trip button, and not too scared of that anymore.

I did try the cruise and it did cancel as I pulled in the clutch.. . so still baffled about not being able to start in gear with the clutch pulled in.. that reminds me.. the tech said they do not recommend starting the bike in gear without the clutch after I explained that the instructions required this to be tested.... after telling him that I really do not mind it not starting in gear (with clutch pulled in), however there are times when I do require it. Did not get much more from him than the switch must be "defective" again.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 10:00 AM
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Did you check the clutch inter-lock switch to see if its releasing all the way? By you having to have the clam shells off to switch out the light packs it might have affected it. When the clutch lever is not pulled in, the switch is pressed down by part of the clutch lever. When you pull the clutch lever in, the switch is released and should pop out all the way... this tells the bike you pulled in the clutch lever. If it is stuck in, not extending out, the bike does not know you pulled the clutch lever in. If it started this right after you pulled the clam shells off to change out switch packs it is possible it did not get aligned correctly and is snagging on the housing. Here's a picture of it, in case I'm not making sense. The clutch lever is pulled in. The green arrow is pointing to the part of the clutch lever that will push the switch down, when I release the lever. The red arrow is pointing at the switch, which is out all the way because the clutch lever is pulled in all the way. If you have already eliminated this as a possibility, disregard lol If you check it and its not releasing all the way, try what Punjabi HD suggested above to free it up. I think it is possible that cruise control could/would release when you pulled in the clutch lever for other reasons. This is easy to see, and to fix, if it is just stuck... and easy to clear as a possible culprit. Coincidental timing if it happened at same time as changing the switch packs.
 

Last edited by Ssitruc; Sep 29, 2017 at 10:11 AM.
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