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For those wondering how to use it:
With a friend present and at the controls, raise the bike up on a bike jack. Start it and put in 2nd gear, engine at idle, let the tire rotate.
Take the rasp and put the forward metal hand grip on the floor under the tire. Use the long handle to raise the rasp up to the tire.
Just lightly touch the tire with the rasp and it will shave off the areas that are cupped. Wear some eye protection...
For those wondering how to use it:
With a friend present and at the controls, raise the bike up on a bike jack. Start it and put in 2nd gear, engine at idle, let the tire rotate.
Take the rasp and put the forward metal hand grip on the floor under the tire. Use the long handle to raise the rasp up to the tire.
Just lightly touch the tire with the rasp and it will shave off the areas that are cupped. Wear some eye protection...
I've experienced cupping on pretty much every bike I've ever had. Regardless of tire brand, regardless of pressures. And if you Google motorcycle tire cupping, you'll see the reasons why it occurs. Just the nature of the beast. If our tires were slicks, with no tread blocks, we'd have no cupping. The small tread blocks squirming and deforming under acceleration and braking is what causes cupping. So, the easier you ride, the less pronounced it'll be. I accelerate and brake hard at times, so I get cupping...
Be that as it may, I have found that keeping the tire pressure up towards the max pressure of the tires (but not over!) significantly lowers cupping. But I also don't accelerate or brake hard (normally), so I get almost 20K out of tires ....
I read on this forum somewhere that running your tire pressures a little higher than spec will reduce the cupping. I run mine at about 3 to 5 PSI over spec and haven't noticed any cupping yet at about half worn-out.
All one-up miles and ridden conservatively, with mine. Don't know if that makes any difference or not.
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