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Lower fairing screws

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Old Nov 28, 2018 | 10:14 AM
  #31  
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Take a look at the parts diagrams or the service manuals again. It looks like the 2 screws that go into those brass nuts just pass thru the Ducts, and are securing the ducts in place. It looks like the nut inserts are actually part or the Fascia Assembly, Lower Left (57100170) or Fascia Assembly. Lower Right (57100171) and those are listed as #32.49 on Ronnie's HD.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=54&c=0&d=2014 FLHTK ELECTRA GLIDE ULTRA LIMITED [KE] FAIRING LOWERS


 

Last edited by 14GuineaPig; Nov 28, 2018 at 10:16 AM.
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Old Nov 28, 2018 | 09:17 PM
  #32  
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Well Nuts
 
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Old Dec 1, 2018 | 07:39 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 14GuineaPig
Take a look at the parts diagrams or the service manuals again. It looks like the 2 screws that go into those brass nuts just pass thru the Ducts, and are securing the ducts in place. It looks like the nut inserts are actually part or the Fascia Assembly, Lower Left (57100170) or Fascia Assembly. Lower Right (57100171) and those are listed as #32.49 on Ronnie's HD.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=54&c=0&d=2014 FLHTK ELECTRA GLIDE ULTRA LIMITED [KE] FAIRING LOWERS


My parts catalog is for 2014 and appears to be incorrect. It does not show the dashed lined going all the way to the facia. I believe your are correct.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 05:08 PM
  #34  
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What I did is drill out the heads on the torx screws. I was then able to disassemble. I then drove the brass inserts out back word. I put the brass insert in the vise and backed out the screws with a plyer. I put some super glue in the faring hole for the brass insert and drove the insert back in. I then went to Fastenll and bought new screws. The one thing I did not do was put Locktite on the screws like the factory did. All is just like new. 8/11/2019
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 05:11 AM
  #35  
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When I replaced my waterpump for the new style, I had 3 out of 4 come out OK. As required by the Laws of Murphy, it was the fourth one that stripped out so as to provide maximum disappointment. I found the appropriate size EZ-Out and used it to hold the insert from the outside whilst removing the inner screw. The new pump provides great peace of mind BTW.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 03:26 PM
  #36  
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I’m planning on updating my water pump on my 2016 limited this spring and I’m going to try using a soldering iron to heat the screw and soften the loctite. Has anybody else had luck trying this?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 11:29 AM
  #37  
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Removed my lowers to have them Acrylic Clear Coated (Spray on Clear Bra) and had to drill out all four of those lower fairing bolts. Started small and increased drill bit size until bolts came out. Replaced them with black nut and bolt from Lowes. Not worried about the look of the nuts, since they are be covered up by radiator screen. worked perfect!

Speedy
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 12:27 AM
  #38  
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The top front of the lower fairing , the CAP FAIRING lower right or left, how does that come off after the screws are removed? I am having a hell of a time getting it to come off. I have the bottom loose and the coolant reservoir, and pressure cap loose. I don't want to break it with my big mitts.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2020 | 04:31 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by William Bartsch
I’m planning on updating my water pump on my 2016 limited this spring and I’m going to try using a soldering iron to heat the screw and soften the loctite. Has anybody else had luck trying this?
I used this same tactic to get my lowers off when I replaced my water pump on a 2016 RGU. Worked like a charm. Held the soldering iron on the heads for about a minute. Be careful when you turn and loosen them as they stay hot for a while. Learned about this from another member in a post on replacing the pump. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2021 | 11:41 PM
  #40  
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drill 2 tiny holes in the brass and use snap ring pliers to hold it
 
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