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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 09:04 AM
  #11  
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Has anyone used an SKF bearing in the wheel?
Front and Rear (non-ABS) - HD#9276B - SKF 6205-2RSJEM
https://www.motionindustries.com/pro...p?sku=00052619

6205-2RSJEM
6: single-row deep groove ball bearing
2: 15mm width
Standard OD: 52mm
05: 25mm ID
2RS: synthetic rubber contact seals on both sides
JEM: C3 internal clearance (> than normal), steel cage, quiet running characteristics, GJN (high-temperature urea-based grease)

http://www.metarulman.com/images/katalog-skf-rulman.pdf (page 27 discusses the JEM designation).
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 09:49 AM
  #12  
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Besides checking for enough grease, I also make sure none of that clear vaseline looking stuff is in there, seems to be used in a lot of bearings now and is what a few forum guys have reported finding in their failed bearings. I always clean that out if found and replace with a good quality synthetic. Also, there are some chinese bearings that have ball cages (ball spacers) in them that are so flimsy they bend easily and I've found some of those folded up and all the ***** crammed on one side of the bearing when it failed. I won't use any that don't have sturdy cages. Some Harley bearings have metal shields over the seals and you can't check those without wrecking the shields; I don't use bearings like that, either. And here's a good reason to always check the grease - I've pulled seals on bearings from farm tractors to Boeing airliners that were dry as a bone; it's rare, but some do slip through that way.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 09:55 AM
  #13  
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It about 10000 miles and I don't face any problem with my front and behind bearings. I think my HD motorcycle is one of the best motorcycle.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 10:06 AM
  #14  
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I have fitted SKF 62052RSH Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 25x52x15mm in my partners machine on the front wheel.

She has covered around 2.5K miles so no idea how long they will last.

Has anyone used an SKF C3 bearing in the wheel?
Unless the bearing you are replacing specifically says C3 on it then you should not replace it with a C3 bearing.
 

Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Jun 5, 2019 at 10:07 AM.
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 10:07 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by GalvTexGuy
I hope so because those are the ones I used when I replaced my bearings.
Ditto. Though I have a sets of All ***** sitting in the garage just in case.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by HKMark23
Yep, because I have ABS I thought it wise to stick with MoCo replacements too. Perhaps this wasn't necessary. Maybe someone with the requisite technical savvy can shed some light for us on other possibilities,,, ?
After I had 2 failures on the front and 1 on the back I switched to All ***** ABS bearings on my 2013 EGlide. all ***** claims to use better seals. They worked fine till I traded the bike in so I didn't have a chance to fully check them out on a tire change. Word is Harley has a newer improved bearing.

Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy
Do bearings just commit suicide though? Would there have been some play in them for a while before the total failure?

When I was told about the front bearings on my partners bike the movement at the rim of the wheel was only very slight but there nonetheless and so I changed the bearings immediately.
It is not normal for a bearing to have a catastrophic failure, there is usually some tell tale signs well before they "explode". When a bearing is going bad it may not have any extra play in it. You may hear a rough hum out of it when it is spinning. A quick and simple check is to get the wheel in the air and spin it. The brake pads will probably mask any noise the bearing may make. But rather than removing the calliper hold a finger on the axle to feel for rough spots. If I suspect a bad bearing the wheel will come off and you will feel it by turning the inner race with a finger.

Another tell tale sign is grease or usually rust "bleeding" from the bearing. This is a sign to do a more thorough inspection.

The rear bearing I found when the wheel was on a static wheel balancer, at about 5000 miles. The bearing felt fine except 1 little bump in one spot. It would have just progressively got worse over time. It may have went another 10,000 miles, or only went 2 miles.

On front wheel fails I felt the occasional subtle "bump" in the handlebars that just didn't feel like it came from the road. On further inspection you could see the dried rust marks bleeding outward from the bearing. Once the bearings were replaced the low pitched hum out of the front disappeared. Since this hum came on gradually it was not apparent till it was gone again.

The usually first comment is "don't wash the bike with a pressure washer". Even if I did use a pressure washer I know enough not to apply direct pressure to a bearing. My bikes never see any thing more than a garden hose although they do see long highway road trips even through torrential rain storms.
 

Last edited by Sparkee...; Jun 5, 2019 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 11:17 AM
  #17  
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I got 35k out of my 14 sg. when I changed my tires I did the bearing as a maintenance cause I'm riding out to Seattle in August from Michigan. my question to those who having failing bearings so early on is are you power washing your bikes? I wash mine the old fashion way with a hose and bucket of water. never ever saw a power washer. when I replaced my bearing indy said these are fine as they are. I said change them anyway. just my .02s

Batman
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 11:53 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by top0211
Mine went at about 17k. Not a catastrophic failure, changed out anyway.
mine were 18k
 
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Originally Posted by Sparkee...

Another tell tale sign is grease or usually rust "bleeding" from the bearing. This is a sign to do a more thorough inspection.
The grease/rust streaks radiating out from the bearing was the first noticeable symptom of my 3 front wheel bearing failures. I was about 700 miles from home when the second set began showing those streaks and by the time I got home there was a distinct buzz coming from the front wheel. There was over .050" slop in the bearing but it held together.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 12:54 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy
I have fitted SKF 62052RSH Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 25x52x15mm in my partners machine on the front wheel.
She has covered around 2.5K miles so no idea how long they will last.
Unless the bearing you are replacing specifically says C3 on it then you should not replace it with a C3 bearing.
The C3 designation gives greater internal clearance, and this is used in applications that rotate the OD of the bearing (i.e a wheel), where the OD should have a slight press fit, and the ID should have a slight slip fit. Have you used a micrometer to measure the axle and the bearing bore to ensure you have the proper fit of the bearing? The axle is a slip fit through the bearing, and an additional 0.008 mm (0.0003") is not going to make a difference.

C0 (normal) bore (ID) designation specs: 0.005 mm (0.0002") MIN to 0.020 mm (0.0008") MAX
C3/JEM bore (ID) designation changes this to: 0.013 mm (0.0005") MIN to 0.028 mm (0.0011") MAX

Are you sure the Harley 9276B bearings are not designated with a C3 clearance?
 
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