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Zero lash

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Old May 5, 2022 | 07:32 PM
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Default Zero lash

Based on whiteguy18`post, I went for a cam change on my 15 SG. Woods 222, lifters, fm easy adjustable push rods. For the most part it is going well except for when I removed the heat shield, the head pipe was way cracked at the collector. New fm 2 into 1 on the way. Anyway, installed pushrods today. I'm sorry, but nothing easy about it. Not terrible but a pia especially the intake. So, was able to get to zero lash on both rear and intake on front. I could not get there on the front exhaust. Close to zero lash, I kept turning with no improvement. Removed it and will attempt again tomorrow. Any ideas? I may just repeat the entire process?
 
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Old May 5, 2022 | 08:08 PM
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You're not trying to adjust the front and rear at the same time are you? This would definitely cause problems both with trying to adjust the pushrods and later trying to start the bike. Have you watched a few YouTube videos on how to do it? Jp cycles has a good on..kinda long but you can jump around and get the info you need.
 
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Old May 5, 2022 | 09:45 PM
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You NEED to be on the base circle of the cam, to accurately find zero lash and get a good adjustment on the pushrods.... and after properly adjusting the pushrod(s), you need to wait for the affected lifter to bleed down, before rotating the engine...

If you don't completely understand what I wrote above, watch one of the good youtube videos on the subject... It's really not hard, but you need to know how to do it properly...

S&S has a good one, FuelMoto has a good one, and this one is by Kevin Baxter at Pro Twin Performance:

The pushrod adjustment starts at 22:30...

 

Last edited by hattitude; May 5, 2022 at 09:48 PM.
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Old May 6, 2022 | 07:46 AM
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Thanks for the replies. Yes, I did the rear first and then moved the front to the base circle. Did the intake but just can't get all the movement out of the exhaust. I have watched videos and am confident my procedure is correct. The other three went fine.
 
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Old May 6, 2022 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by hattitude
You NEED to be on the base circle of the cam, to accurately find zero lash and get a good adjustment on the pushrods.... and after properly adjusting the pushrod(s), you need to wait for the affected lifter to bleed down, before rotating the engine...

If you don't completely understand what I wrote above, watch one of the good youtube videos on the subject... It's really not hard, but you need to know how to do it properly...

S&S has a good one, FuelMoto has a good one, and this one is by Kevin Baxter at Pro Twin Performance:

The pushrod adjustment starts at 22:30...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh1YmpNukDA
Thanks for sharing that video. Having never done any engine work, that was very educational. I will check out his other videos.
 
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Old May 6, 2022 | 01:32 PM
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While this probably shouldn't affect finding zero lash, which adjustable pushrods are you using.....???

Some take into affect that with the OEM solid pushrods, the exhaust pushrod is longer than the intake pushrod. So some adjustable pushrods will make the intake shorter, or exhaust longer, even though they are adjustable... There should be enough adjustment that it wouldn't matter for finding zero lash, but thought I'd mention it...
 
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Old May 6, 2022 | 01:48 PM
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They were fuel moto pushrods and yes the exhaust is a bit longer. Don't know what was up yesterday but today found zero lash no problem. Always good to sleep on it.
 
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