Clunkiest clutch action ever.......
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 3,889
From: Near Yosemite
So, the connector in between the new adjustable upper cable and the OEM lower cable is still the OEM coupling? Or FBI's connector, or something similar? Hard to make out in the pic. Does it just add another adjuster to the set up?
I'd like to fine a one piece cable with an adjuster at the lever, like yours, to replace the whole kit and caboodle. Any connection is a possible point of some degree of failure. Just like in the electrician world, any splice is a possible point of failure.......
I guess you'd just have to have a one piece cable custom built......
I'd like to fine a one piece cable with an adjuster at the lever, like yours, to replace the whole kit and caboodle. Any connection is a possible point of some degree of failure. Just like in the electrician world, any splice is a possible point of failure.......
I guess you'd just have to have a one piece cable custom built......
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,611
Likes: 865
From: Southern Virginia
Since the replacement cable is a two piece setup it makes me wonder if the clutch action or feel would be any different than just using the FB adjuster at the junction of the two cables. No more often than I have to adjust one of these modern cables I don't mind the adjustment point being at the cable junction. Yeah it can be a pain with lowers but I've stripped this bike down and put it back together a couple of times now so it ain't too bad.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 3,889
From: Near Yosemite
Since the replacement cable is a two piece setup it makes me wonder if the clutch action or feel would be any different than just using the FB adjuster at the junction of the two cables. No more often than I have to adjust one of these modern cables I don't mind the adjustment point being at the cable junction. Yeah it can be a pain with lowers but I've stripped this bike down and put it back together a couple of times now so it ain't too bad.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 2,019
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From: NoVA
I do clutch adjustment every 5k miles, that means playing with the cable tension, lever side adjuster makes it so much easier.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 793
Likes: 402
From: Middle Tennessee
Looks like post #9 was mine. What info are you trying “to pull” from me 😀 sorry I might have missed the question. Install is pretty simple, similar to a different adjuster you disconnect OEM plastic one, pull clutch lever off and pull the cable out of it. In my case I’ve also had to open the primary and loosen the clutch adjuster, so that lower part has more slack.
Remove original cable, route the new one. Connect two parts and slide a cover over it.
Reinstall the clutch lever. Adjust clutch to your liking (half to full turn). Adjust free play at the perch. Enjoy.
I’ve had this setup on my 24 for about 7k and now on 25 for 6700. Love it, I have lowers, so adjusting free play at the perch is God sent.
Remove original cable, route the new one. Connect two parts and slide a cover over it.
Reinstall the clutch lever. Adjust clutch to your liking (half to full turn). Adjust free play at the perch. Enjoy.
I’ve had this setup on my 24 for about 7k and now on 25 for 6700. Love it, I have lowers, so adjusting free play at the perch is God sent.
I have the factory service manual and step one is remove the outer fairing. I honestly cannot see how that will free up additional space to route the cable. It looks like that even taking the outer off, you are still blocked by the inner fairing. I Do think the nacelle around the bar risers needs to come off.
I’m not opposed to taking the outer fairing off but would prefer to avoid it. I had the fairing off several time on my 2012 and it got pretty good at it, so not afraid to do that step if needed.
Give me any advice you can based on your experience.
Thanks
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 2,042
From: NoVA
No need to remove the outer fairing for RG, I've only removed nacelle and it should give you all the access you need. Cable is routed in the channel on the right side of the frame head and also kept in place with a P-clamp under nacelle.
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