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Razor Tour Pack Solo mount

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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 01:59 PM
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Default Razor Tour Pack Solo mount

I received my Advan Black Razor Tour pack yesteday. The picture shows the tour pack in the stock solo mount postion, but I will make adjustable spacer bars so that I can move it up closer to be in the back rest position for the Rider. I will post picurtes after I drill and tap the holes for adjutability, I can tell you that you need a 5/8" thich spacer minimum to mount in the recess of the tour pack bottom so it can then slide forward and it will need to move forward @ 4"-5"
 

Last edited by Circa58; Jul 9, 2020 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 04:21 PM
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Looks Great, color seems to be right on too.
Couple suggestions, or things to watch out for. I've done this on a King and a Chopped, not a razor though. On both I used 1/2" X 2 1/2" 6061 aluminum bar stock (painted black) and the fit was perfect, I would expect 5/8" wouldn't hurt, plus it'll give you a little extra lift to clear your saddlebag latches. Here's a sketch of what I did, maybe it'll give you an idea if you don't already have it all worked out. (this sketch was from the King I did first, and the Chopped tour pack's bolts were a little longer so I didn't need to use any specialty nuts on it)



Moving it 4" to 5" forward might cause you problems with the tour pack's rack coming out from under the back of the tour pack. On both, a chopped and a King, I couldn't go more than 2" forward because the mounting rack starts getting too close to the rear of the tour pack (on the King 2" was plenty anyways). Sooooo, on the chopped to get things where I wanted them I took the back rest pad to a seat guy and had him add 2" of pretty dense padding to the lower flap, and added 2" to the top pad as well, and he made a new skin for it... cost $100. I didn't care for the upper pads feel, so when I got it home I took it off and peeled the new cover off of the top. Then on the upper pad I took an electric fillet knife and cut a curve in it from side to side. Leaving the outer edge with the full extra 2" and curving in to the middle a 1 1/2 deep. Then stretched the cover back on it and re-stapled it. That contour I cut into it really made it feel so much better, and the 2" in that bottom flap really feels nice, gives some lower back support. (pic included so you can see what I'm talking about)

 

Last edited by Ssitruc; Jul 9, 2020 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 04:39 PM
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Oh yeah, a unintended benefit created by "lifting" it the 1/2" with the bars... was able to use the quick connect locks on the one-up bracket, just had to modify one of the keys lol I cut the handle off of it, drilled a hole thru it, and put it on the fob key ring.


 
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 04:41 PM
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Thanks, something to think about for sure,I have 6061 Al, 3/8" by 2.0" by @ 15" long that I will bolt stationary to the Quick Change mount. I will tap 4-6 holes (1/4-20) on 1" centerlines into this 3/8" thick aluminum bar stock

Then I have a 1/2" thick by 2" wide Aluminumwith 1/4" by 2" spacers and this will sit ontop of the longer Aluminum rails, and this will give the bottom of the pack clearance to slide forward. I will trim the lengths of aluminum to only use what I need to stroke forward and be less obtrusive

I am mocking it up in the pics below, then I can flat black for now and then powder coat the Aluminum in the winter


 
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Ssitruc
Oh yeah, a unintended benefit created by "lifting" it the 1/2" with the bars... was able to use the quick connect locks on the one-up bracket, just had to modify one of the keys lol I cut the handle off of it, drilled a hole thru it, and put it on the fob key ring.

Nice, I have the locking keys but could not use them, and,,, as you mentieond, lifting gives clearnce for the saddlebag lids... thanks for the tip on teh locking key info.

 
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Circa58
Thanks, something to think about for sure,I have 6061 Al, 3/8" by 2.0" by @ 15" long that I will bolt stationary to the Quick Change mount. I will tap 4-6 holes (1/4-20) on 1" centerlines into this 3/8" thick aluminum bar stock

Then I have a 1/2" thick by 2" wide Aluminumwith 1/4" by 2" spacers and this will sit ontop of the longer Aluminum rails, and this will give the bottom of the pack clearance to slide forward. I will trim the lengths of aluminum to only use what I need to stroke forward and be less obtrusive

I am mocking it up in the pics below, then I can flat black for now and then powder coat the Aluminum in the winter

Man, you got ideas working lol... be sure when that tour pack is sitting up there the racks not hanging out the back. I couldnt figure out how to keep that from happening if I went more than 2" forward, unless there's something different about the razor. Also, just in case you hadn't noticed, the spacing between the front bolts is slightly different than the spacing on the back bolts... ask me how I found out....lol
 

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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 04:59 PM
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If the rack hangs out bad, I will cut it off:-)

But, my thought on that is to bolt a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum to the back side of he 3/8" thick bars ..... sort of like a bumper... and put a reflector on that

or.... add a plasma brake light bar onto the 1/8" thick "bumper"
 
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Ssitruc
Oh yeah, a unintended benefit created by "lifting" it the 1/2" with the bars... was able to use the quick connect locks on the one-up bracket, just had to modify one of the keys lol I cut the handle off of it, drilled a hole thru it, and put it on the fob key ring.
Thank you for the pointer on the front hole cemter lines, I had not gotten that far yet :-), so you saved me on that one..... Also my Razor hangs over the back side of the solo mount @ 2"... so I will just liminate the 3/8" thick long bars and slot two hear holes in the solo mount like you did..... thanks again for the insights!
 
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 09:27 AM
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I'm on my 3 revision, and last, of "bars". Started with steel, too heavy and too hard to work with for something like this. The 6061 works great and easy to modify. My last "version" I was able to correct mis-steps on the previous ones... Like on the hole for the elevator bolts, drilled them tighter so the threaded part slides thru, but when it gets to the square shoulders at the base I had to pound them in with a hammer to "seat" them. This way the bolt doesn't spin when tightening or loosening the nut. Also, using a 1" counter boring bit on underside of the front holes, so I could recess the nylon lock nuts. Rounding off all the edges and scuffing the surfaces, so it takes painting better... etc.... I kinda wish I had traded out my chrome docking hardware and rack for black powder coated... so it all "disappears"... oh well.

Modifying the pad though, I can't stress enough how comfortable that made it and helped make it practical to use as a "rider's backrest". But IF I was to do another set... I'd probably find other tweaks to do lol and you will also, or even something all together different, making it work the way you want. Good Luck to you
 

Last edited by Ssitruc; Jul 10, 2020 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 09:49 AM
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QUOTE=Ssitruc;19252403]I'm on my 3 revision, and last, of "bars". Started with steel, too heavy and too hard to work with for something like this. The 6061 works great and easy to modify. My last "version" I was able to correct mis-steps on the previous ones... Like on the hole for the elevator bolts, drilled them tighter so the threaded part slides thru, but when it gets to the square shoulders at the base I had to pound them in with a hammer to "seat" them. This way the bolt doesn't spin when tightening or loosening the nut. Also, using a 1" counter boring bit on underside of the front holes, so I could recess the nylon lock nuts. Rounding off all the edges and scuffing the surfaces, so it takes painting better... etc.... I kinda wish I had traded out my chrome docking hardware and rack for black powder coated... so it all "disappears"... oh well.

Modifying the pad though, I can't stress enough how comfortable that made it and helped make it practical to use as a "rider's backrest". But IF I was to do another set... I'd probably find other tweaks to do lol and you will also, or even something all together different, making it work the way you want. Good Luck to you[/QUOTE]

I can see the lower pad and upper pad being improved for sure, once i get it where i want to, I wil llook into the pad mod, yours looks very comfortable and supportive.



Once I get it the way I want it, I will see what can be improved, I considered some sliding rails like below, but a lot shorter height, that would mount to the solo mount and then the pack could be infinetly adjustable based on the rail length





 

Last edited by Circa58; Jul 10, 2020 at 09:54 AM.
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