If anyone's interested I'm thinking of shedding some weight from my new little scoot a run out 18 FXBB.The starting weight in my country for this rig is 286KG or 630.5lbs.
My reasons for doing this are I've moved back to sunny FNQ in Australia and there's a wicked little range(twisties) and 3 other of the best ranges(twisties) in Australia within 100K's(60miles) really close by.Wanting to make her stop, turn and accelerate a little better, the reason being she really does scoot up and down these twisties but when I'm catching rice(jappers) and start to hustle this little FXBB isn't happy , it becomes what I'Il call clumsy in the handling department where extra input actually is adverse to relative gains ,transitions become hurried, clumsy and not smooth at all, remember smooth is fast. Yes I'm 60 years old and we still do this type of BS don't we.
The things I've done are V&H slash cuts ,an 8lb reduction. So we're at 622.5 lbs for now cost 300USD +/- already done and paid for.
Things to be done are as follows in order of ease or price.Price is relative to where you are in the motorcycle industry so I'll quote a rough retail price.
Li Ion battery , these are super light and save 12.2 lbs from a Softy. we'd be at 610.2 lbs cost 250 USD +/-
An Excell 18x4.5 40 spoke rear rim and tire saving 8lbs(+/-) 602 lbs +/- 500 USD +/-
An excell 19x2.5 40 spoke front rim 2.3 lbs 600 lbs 350 USD +/-

These 3 modification shave 22.5lbs from the FXBB for a retail of $1100 USD roughly 50 $ a lb and we have a 600lb FXBB that handles ,stops and accelerates better.The unsprung weight from the rims and tires is always some of the best money spent on a bike too, just my opinion.A lighter wheel set improves acceleration and stopping too.
These will be done as say the rear tire needs replacing , that will be done or the battery shids itself. This bike is a Bobber style so more weight reduction improves aesthetics(for me)
The next mods will be things done to Bobberise the little FXBB.Same format.
remove front mud guard roughly 2 or 3lbs(unsprung weight) 598 lbs no charge
remove rear guard and fender struts 15lbs +/- 583 lbs no charge
registration and lights for legality +3lbs +/- 586 lbs 100 USD +/-
Cheapest reductions so far at 100 USD for 12lb loss is 8$ USD per lb we're now at 1200 USD for 46lbs+/- for 26 USD +/-per LB saved , I'm a pensioner so I'll stop here with a bike that is 46+/- lbs light than delivered in my country ,for me money well spent and a guys got to have a hobby right.
Weight gets exponentially more expensive to shed but if you look at it as it's making the bike safer to ride then you can't put a price on that .
I will press out the steel liners of the set of barrels I have when I go to a larger capacity M8, I can save roughly 8lbs there but will add a little with larger pistons so roughly, a 2 into 1 exhaust would save a few lbs as well.
so Ally barrels 7lbs +/- 579 lbs 250 USD
A decent 2 into 1 full exhaust 6lbs +/- 573 lbs 350 USD second hand.
Now we're at 573 lbs+/- having shed a total of almost 60 lbs for a cost of about $1800 USD being 30$ per LB lost ? I think. An FXBB at dry weight of around 575 lbs will be a fun toy.
Note mathematics may vary due to old age.
Brake rotors are lighter too so after the above I will shed weight that way that's roughly 150 USD each end for about 4 LBS of unsprung mass. For a couple of grand the FXBB could quite well become a twisties weapon.
Feel free you guys to tell me the actual weights of any mods you have swapped out, I'd like to know if guys like the MChad lost weight with Ohlins or fork kits or gained weight with them.
I will also gain some cornering clearance with some suspension mods which may add back a few lbs but give me corner speed.
Crazy stupid $ stuff like Ti axles and bolts ,CF bits are off the table unless you're buying,but if you know of these a price per LB chart would be nice to see the relativity of those parts.
Have already briefly PM chatted with Howard at MM and he's got some ideas too.He's site sponsor and a very clued in fellow.
Before I get hit with"just lose some weight lard butt" I will have you know I've been dieting for quite some time and am perpetually hungry ,even after a meal and am happy at around 235lbs.

Peace ,reduce safely.

 

Great..looks like u covered everything. The battery n the wheels are first things that should go for weight reduction...a set of carbon fiber wheels will greatly help reduce pounds but can get really expensive (Also might not look as good as the wire wheels on ur bobber build)

Fenders yes..but think u'll need a fork brace in the front to help with more rigidity..then again the difference in weight saving would be negligible.

Did u consider an aluminum swing arm cos that's a major weight saving factor...few to no options for the newer softails. After this, u have the usual titanium bolts, aluminum controls etc etc..now if someone would a make a carbon fiber frame...hmmm

Anyway plz do post some pictures of ur build..keep up the good work and enjoy ur ride. Cheers

 

Cheers man thx ,it's not going to happen overnight but most if not all will happen over the next 18 months or so that way instead of looking for parts and paying full whack some bargains usually turn up.
Yea a carbon or Alloy swing arm would mos def cut some weight man ,thx for that.The fork brace may end up a chopped FR guard or a carbon insert, fork braces require stiffening of the suspension you know. as they reduce stiction and flex.

Peace..

 

Let the Rice Bangers Go man dont worry about the Hiroshima Screamers, just relax and enjoy the twisties heading up the range Bro

 

Yo you're an Aussie too man , I checked your profile and I think you're Sunny Coast or Nambour or round there maybe ?

Back to the weight reduction,I can shut down those ricers most of the time but it can get a wee bit dangerous , so yea i'm after a little leeway at silly speed.

Peace bro.

 

sorry to bust your bubble- but removing 60lbs from a Street Bob with a 235lb rider on it isn't going to make the bike behave any differently in your "twisties". It's just not enough of a change to be felt. You'd be far better off taking that $1000 and investing in a performance rear shock like the one RWD makes for our bikes. I installed one on my Street Bob and it's a night and day difference. The bike corners better, stays in contact with the road no matter the conditions, and the bike is so much more solid and comfortable and confident feeling when you're really wringing it out.

Of course our bikes can easily be made more powerful by throwing money at their engines too- ut disregarding that- I think with the exception of investing in carbon, magnesium, or even a super light alloy wheelset- you're going to be disappointed in what removing parts does to your bike's handling and speed. not to mention riding agressively without a rear fender and the stock seat is just asking for a nasty accident.

bobbers aren't really the best aesthetic for a canyon carver- maybe you should seek your inspiration from flat track or cafe racer looks- then you can have suspension that'll really make your bike handle better.

i also love my 10" t-bars- but no one is going around corners faster with their armpits on display- maybe consider drag bars, or moto bars or even clip-ons.

it's your bike and as long as you love the project and the look hats off to you- that's all that matters! prove me wrong- end up with a 500lb bobber, there's always exceptions to any rule. ever tried to keep up with frisco hells angels in the twisties? those guys used to take everything even their rider pegs off their choppers to make them lighter, skinnier, and quicker. the ape hangers let the bikes lane split over mirrors, the taller suspension, let those bikes ride up and down curbs and corner hard on steep inclines- and they always had go fast rubber on those bikes and big engines and tunderheaders. They'd jus put their feet on the cases and rip.

i love purpose built fast bikes- and I've got my street bob kinda set up like a modern version of a fresco chopper....narrow t bars, raised suspension, mid sets, and a nice Whiplash seat that pushes me back. Next step is just making it a little quicker!

Good luck!

 

I can feel the difference between a full tank of gas and a near empty tank of gas,all good racers can so I think I'll be fine with my plan ,60lb is roughly 10% total mass so it will stop better and accelerate faster and transition better. Unsprung weight is the key to handling as well so lighter wheels will be a big handling improvement and they're next..
Since I posted the forks and shocks have been revalved and raised for clearance by the fellow that did my race bikes for the last 20 years , I know what I need to go fast , you worry about you, I'm definitely on the right track for me.

Peace.

 

No steel liners??
Did you actually weigh your bike before starting?

I'm trying to keep weight down on my bike too, here is what I've learned so far:

*The stock head pipe is very light. I thought I would save weight going to a 2-1 exhaust but only saved about 5 pounds with the S&S "race" exhaust. Putting very light mufflers on the stock head pipe would probably save more weight. The S&S muffler is HEAVY, I think the stock head pipe is lighter than the S&S.
*Not all Lithium batteries weigh the same, I think the higher output ones weigh more, The stock battery in my Low Rider is not large, probably smaller than the ones in a touring bike. The Shorai 540CCA battery saved me about 10 pounds.
*I removed the passenger pegs and use a solo seat. I'd say I so far saved about 19-21 real pounds from the bike.
*I'm a pensioner too at 65 years but I'm 5' 9-1/2" tall and weigh 181# which is over weight for me. I want to see 165# by the end of November. You must be about 7 foot tall.
*The new Softails are built light, a lot of aluminum brackets etc., so not going to be easy to save weight on the bike alone.

 

The FXBB is 286kg(630.5) dry weight here in Australia, we weighed all sorts of things at the shop most new models too.
I shaved 8lbs going from stock mufflers to V&H slash cuts from memory,kept the stock head pipe.I didn't think that cool 2 into 1 of yours would weigh much.
Yea I'll press out the steel liners and use alloy liners with a Nikasil coating of some sort , like these http://test.revperf.com/mke8.php , I have a guy who does electroplating of cylinders and can press out liners , you get some neat contacts after a lifetime in a bikeshop.
The Li Ion battery that HD has is 12.2 lbs lighter than stock as bought .https://www.harley-davidson.com/stor...fe-6ah-battery
Yea brake discs and maybe a carbon drive pulley or drill a few holes in the stock pulley ridiculous yes but it gives a pensioner something to do. I retired to do projects like this because owning and running a bike shop you never get to ride believe it or not. So yea I retired early by choice to do a few ridiculous projects like this one. I have a wicked workshop of my own too now to get lost in for days.
I'm 5 10, dude a lifetime of heavy weights has left me looking a bit like a lowland gorilla,so yea good or bad 17 stone is a good weight for me.

Peace man.

 

Buy a stock used Gen I Hayabusa for $6000 USD and instantly save about 80 lbs and double the power.

After your mind is done getting blown, you'll realize it's still an overweight pig up against a GSXR1000 (or similar) bike, or even the 600s in the tight stuff.

All bikes are compromises and it's fun to dream and act on those dreams for your particular love interest. Power to you, Agoober. It was a fun read and I look forward to you making progress on your dream. Cheers!