Handlebar Risers

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Feb 23, 2020 | 10:09 AM

#11

UTFatbob

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From: Utah

Quote:

Originally Posted by MMNCS(SS)

I was worried about kickback on these as well. The stock riser puts the bar back about 1.5 inches from centerline, and the Trask are straight up.

I have a none ABS bike as well. Can you tell me more about the front brake line situation. I looked at mine and it looks like you can"t take off just the line from the master cylinder to the distribution block. Did you have to order all new fronts and distro block? Where are you getting your new lines from? I thought I was ready to pull the trigger on bar and riser changes but this brake line thing is weird for non ABS bikes. Thanks in advance for any help!

Yeah, it's to soon to tell on the kickback, if worse comes to worse, I'll order a kickback plate.

As far as brake lines go, it's a crappy situation. I looked high and low and couldn't find a plug and play solution. It feels like the non-ABS Fat Bobs are few and far between so aftermarket companies aren't making anything model specific. One user on this forum recommended tapping the manifold and just adding an adapter, which may work, but I wasn't super comfortable doing that, it didn't feel like manifold would hold up.

I called up the folks at Magnum Shielding and they didn't have anything that was direct fit. I also talked to a couple of dealerships here locally and they said it was going to be a custom job as well.

I ended up piecing together a solution. I ordered 3 banjo fittings, one for the master cylinder and 2 for the front calibers, a 3-way T and then 3 individual brake lines. I'm not sure if it's going to work out to be honest. I'll certainly update here with findings.

Mar 6, 2020 | 09:09 PM

#12

UTFatbob

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From: Utah

Just wanted to give a quick update here. As it turns out, figuring out the clutch cable measurement is a pain in the ***. Figured I could save someone from making the same mistake. Unfortunately in all of my research I wasn't able to figure out what Harley though the stock "length" was for reference, so I followed John Maxwell's advice and measured as he mentioned in his video. (Sheathing IIRC.) I ordered a 32 inch cable, P/N 37200378. As it turns out, that is the STOCK length of the Fat Bob upper clutch cable. (I put them side by side.)

I need about 4" of extra length, so I'll be putting an order in for 37200326, which is listed as a 37" cable.

I've got the brake lines & tee, but haven't mocked them up yet. Was hoping to knockout the install this weekend. Damned clutch cable is stopping me from doing that.

Apr 20, 2020 | 06:23 PM

#13

UTFatbob

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From: Utah

Install finished!

Nov 30, 2020 | 07:35 PM

#14

UTFatbob

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From: Utah

Just in case anybody ends up in the same boat, here's a quick description of how I accomplished the brake line replacement. It wasn't the cheapest option, but it looks and functions fine.

I ordered the following hardware from Magnum Shielding:
Note: that the angles of the banjos are pretty preference based. You may be able to get away with shorter T to Caliper cables, I just kind of eye-balled it with a tape measure.

Black Pearl Universal DOT Brake Line 17" x2
Black Pearl Universal DOT Brake Line 23"
Black AN3 Banjo 60° 10mm x2
Black AN3 T Block w/ Bracket
Black AN3 Banjo 35° 12mm

I ordered the following from DennisKirk (can be had anywhere...)
10mm Aluminum Banjo Bolt Washers
12mm Banjo Bolt Washers - R49007
DOT-4 Brake Fluid - DOT-4

You'll drain the brake system, pull the old line off, including the manifold under the triple tree. (That bolt is a bugger, I ended up stripping it out and had to cut the brake lines and use an extractor to get it out.)

Once you have the old line off, you'll attach the bracket for the T-block goes where the bolt for the manifold was using the provided hardware. Then you'll put the 35 degree banjo on the reservoir/lever & run the 23 inch line from that to the T under the triple tree. Then the two 60 degree banjos are for the brake calipers. Once those are attached, the 17 inch line connects them to each side of the T. I'd leave the banjos loose so you can adjust.

Get everything snugged down, and then fill and bleed. Word of advice here, if at all possible, do a reverse bleed. I spent FOREVER trying to get this thing to bleed. A reverse bleeder would've saved me hours of frustration!