2020 Low Rider S Cranks but won’t start after handlebar install
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 27
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
i Appreciate the reply’s guys. I hate to admit I’m getting close to calling it and taking into the HD shop. I’m retracing all steps and taking all the suggestions but still just getting the cranking. Can’t seem to figure this one out.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 1,985
From: Cleveland Zoo
This is a weird code,(Lost Comm w/ LHCM) did you take that left switch pack apart to check for a break?
If I was at the end of my rope I'd take it all apart, everything, and put it back to stock to find the problem.
Forgot to add, what was going on with the rear signal being out, was it the bulb, or no power to socket?
Last edited by OldMike; Apr 25, 2020 at 09:50 PM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 27
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
thanks for the diagrams. My wiring is definitely correct. I’ll look under the gas tank today (I didn’t take it off for the install, just propped it up) to make sure nothing didn’t pop loose.
Also gonna take off the right hand controls, and take them apart to make sure everything is seated properly at the switch pack in case I tugged on something too hard and it came loose.
Dumb Question:
-what constitutes a pinched wire exactly? Just so I can be sure
(I haven’t seen any pinch marks on anything and before I ran the wiring through the bars I taped the can-bus and twist grip sensor wiring with electrical tape from top to bottom to make it more stream line.)
Also gonna take off the right hand controls, and take them apart to make sure everything is seated properly at the switch pack in case I tugged on something too hard and it came loose.
Dumb Question:
-what constitutes a pinched wire exactly? Just so I can be sure
(I haven’t seen any pinch marks on anything and before I ran the wiring through the bars I taped the can-bus and twist grip sensor wiring with electrical tape from top to bottom to make it more stream line.)
Last edited by Raider4; Apr 26, 2020 at 04:52 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 630
Likes: 345
From: Cary, NC
thanks for the diagrams. My wiring is definitely correct. I’ll look under the gas tank today (I didn’t take it off for the install, just propped it up) to make sure nothing didn’t pop loose.
Also gonna take off the right hand controls, and take them apart to make sure everything is seated properly at the switch pack in case I tugged on something too hard and it came loose.
Dumb Question:
-what constitutes a pinched wire exactly? Just so I can be sure
(I haven’t seen any pinch marks on anything and before I ran the wiring through the bars I taped the can-bus and twist grip sensor wiring with electrical tape from top to bottom to make it more stream line.)
Also gonna take off the right hand controls, and take them apart to make sure everything is seated properly at the switch pack in case I tugged on something too hard and it came loose.
Dumb Question:
-what constitutes a pinched wire exactly? Just so I can be sure
(I haven’t seen any pinch marks on anything and before I ran the wiring through the bars I taped the can-bus and twist grip sensor wiring with electrical tape from top to bottom to make it more stream line.)
I'm not necessarily saying you need to remove the wires from the bars you just put on....but a dealer is certainly going to do that and charge $$$$$ if they can't otherwise physically diagnose an issue visually. The inside of LA Choppers are pretty rough, the inside of the bars are not smooth like the outside, especially where the welds are...I have a set of LA Chopper bars on my bike and can attest the wires can strip easily even with tape, even with wire lube, even being careful...it can simply happen on a sharp edge.
I'm just saying, if it was my bike I'd do everything possible to diagnose before giving the dealer $$$$.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 27
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
When you were pulling the wires through your bars it wouldn't take much to strip/scrape the wire insulation on one of your wires, you can't possibly see the condition of your wire insulation inside your bars without actually removing the wires completely out again. I know what an enormous pain in the *** it is to get all the wiring on the TBW side through LA Chopper bars, it's a nightmare, so I'd suggest that as a last resort.
I'm not necessarily saying you need to remove the wires from the bars you just put on....but a dealer is certainly going to do that and charge $$$$$ if they can't otherwise physically diagnose an issue visually. The inside of LA Choppers are pretty rough, the inside of the bars are not smooth like the outside, especially where the welds are...I have a set of LA Chopper bars on my bike and can attest the wires can strip easily even with tape, even with wire lube, even being careful...it can simply happen on a sharp edge.
I'm just saying, if it was my bike I'd do everything possible to diagnose before giving the dealer $$$$.
I'm not necessarily saying you need to remove the wires from the bars you just put on....but a dealer is certainly going to do that and charge $$$$$ if they can't otherwise physically diagnose an issue visually. The inside of LA Choppers are pretty rough, the inside of the bars are not smooth like the outside, especially where the welds are...I have a set of LA Chopper bars on my bike and can attest the wires can strip easily even with tape, even with wire lube, even being careful...it can simply happen on a sharp edge.
I'm just saying, if it was my bike I'd do everything possible to diagnose before giving the dealer $$$$.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 547
Likes: 389
From: PNW
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Wisconsin
Just incase people want to know, this job can be a lot easier depending on the handlebar choice. I installed H-D 12" fat mini apes that come with 4" risers. I also installed H-D heated grips. All the the wires fit through the bars with the connectors on (1.25" bars with smooth bends). The H-D extensions needed were plug-n-play behind the headlight (not inside the bars) and the excess wire stuffed into the frame under the gas tank. Before starting the job I disconnected the battery ground cable.