Stage 1 Question
Thanks
One of the guys over at DK Customs maintains that stage 1 tunes really aren't that necessary - and has dyno charts to prove it.
http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/acl/...sting-info.htm
I'm not sure which of these charts to point you to - might not be on this page - but they did post one with full stage one (pipes and air cleaner) with a stock tune showing the power, torque, and fuel-air ratios were all good.
That said, it's "gospel" on this forum that pipes + air cleaner REQUIRES a tune. I'm not as convinced, but the $400 tuner was worth it for peace of mind. Plus, I'll be adding cams this summer anyway.
One of the guys over at DK Customs maintains that stage 1 tunes really aren't that necessary - and has dyno charts to prove it.
http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/acl/...sting-info.htm
I'm not sure which of these charts to point you to - might not be on this page - but they did post one with full stage one (pipes and air cleaner) with a stock tune showing the power, torque, and fuel-air ratios were all good.
That said, it's "gospel" on this forum that pipes + air cleaner REQUIRES a tune. I'm not as convinced, but the $400 tuner was worth it for peace of mind. Plus, I'll be adding cams this summer anyway.
1. Don't do a Stage 1, just stick with the new slip-on mufflers.
2. On my last bike (a 2017 1200 Sportster), I used V&H slip-on V&H slip-on mufflers with quite baffles (cranky old neighbor called the police on me), a HD high flow air cleaner and the V&H FP3 tuner. I loved this set up. The technical service department at V&H is the best. The decel "fire cracker" option didn't get rid of the decel popping, so, the tech people at V&H analyzed my bike over the phone, developed a custom mapping, and downloaded it to my bike over the phone. The custom mapping worked great; it improved both performance and throttle control. I was also able to leave the FP3 on the bike and constantly monitor multiple performance criteria over my iPhone and quickly clear any code warnings. I miss the FP3. If you go with this option, your bike will run better and cooler. You will also save money because you can do all of the labor yourself, including the tuning. But, your warranty will be toast.
3. On my 2019 Softail Low Rider, I installed the S&S Grand National slip-on mufflers, a HD high flow air cleaner, and had the dealer do a DynoTune using the HD SE tuner. This combination keeps my warranty 100% intact, complies with CA noise laws, and significantly improved the throttle control. Performance improvement was marginal, but the higher air flow and richer fuel mixture should help keep the engine cooler in the summer in my area (Las Vegas) where it gets really hot. TIP: I told my dealer that I wanted to wait until it had a special on a DynoTune. It offered me a $300 discount on the DynoTuned on the spot.
BTW: I am extremely satisfied with my Low Rider. It is the perfect bike for my riding use and physical attributes (short arms and legs). If you have brake problems (e.g., squealing, poor rear brake performance, front brake grabbing), don't listen to HD BS. The OE brake pads on the Low Rider are a widely known problem that HD refuses to acknowledge. Buy the Lyndall Gold+ pads and have them installed ASAP.
Hope you like your Low Rider as much as I like mine.
One of the guys over at DK Customs maintains that stage 1 tunes really aren't that necessary - and has dyno charts to prove it.
http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/acl/...sting-info.htm
I'm not sure which of these charts to point you to - might not be on this page - but they did post one with full stage one (pipes and air cleaner) with a stock tune showing the power, torque, and fuel-air ratios were all good.
That said, it's "gospel" on this forum that pipes + air cleaner REQUIRES a tune. I'm not as convinced, but the $400 tuner was worth it for peace of mind. Plus, I'll be adding cams this summer anyway.
I always ended up with a tuner on my stage I's, even though the bike ran fine without one, after auto-tuning they always ran a bit better and smoother, especially leaving from a stop.
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Stage one: Full exhaust, back plate intake, tuner, and a dyno.
This gives your engine a lil better breathing/exhaust but until you cam it it's money not spent very well.
Professional advice with the M8, forget warranty once you know it's a jam up scooter you have and concentarte on the jugs first. There is an aftermarket piston, 11:1 that'll fit your existing heads and give you much better performance.
The M8 done right is a mean machine. Heads, cam, intake, tuner, and a dyno, but for what they want to do that you could have slapped a 131 in there.
EDIT: With that said a lil more advice, check your production date code. 2019, June, HD started installing the 2020 oil pump to replace the earlier faulty oil pump. Surprised there wasnt a recall on it.
You should upgrade that while upgrading any enginne performance you do.
Just a lil advice for those thinking stage 2 or better. I am.
Last edited by Tampa Fatboy; Aug 9, 2020 at 03:49 PM.







