2018+ Softail Models Breakout

Brake pads

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Old Jun 28, 2020 | 10:36 PM
  #11  
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My stock brakes worked fine, however, the front pads were done at 13,000 miles.


 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 12:34 AM
  #12  
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I didn't go the Kendall brake web but if it's anything like Howard's Motorcycle Metal web, I couldn't be fked so they'll be losing money.
I go to Howard's MM a bit but I just think his web is too hard to get around.He's got great kit and he's a great guy but it infuriates me trying to find **** on his web .
I know I could email him and I have before or ring but time zones right.There's that one day that you just say FK it I'm buying that shock/fork/brakes/pipe/bits or whatever and you jump on the web for it and it's so mental hard to find you just give up, I know it's not just me .
Do these Kendalls bite nice and hard ? More braking power for less effort ?
 

Last edited by Agoober; Jun 29, 2020 at 12:35 AM.
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 08:23 AM
  #13  
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Nearly all after market parts manufacturers claim some degree of improved performance over "stock" parts, and so too does Lyndall for their Gold Plus pads (Indeed, all their pads). Cut-n-paste from their site:

"Our next step up in performance is the Gold+. This is a harder pad than the Z+ with 20% more stopping power than a stock pad and is half the weight. Runs cooler, with little to no noise or dust. Our Gold Plus compound has the highest customer satisfaction and will provide a noticeable increase in stopping power. This compound works great with stock rotors."

What is "stopping power"? Does it mean that for any given PSI of hydraulic pressure their pads will slow the bike 20% faster than stock pads? Does that apply to pads that are cold or hot? Does it mean their G+ pads are 20% more resistant to fading than stock pads? I notice they do not claim they can stop the bike in a shorter distance, which is what one really wants, because that's dictated by the available traction between the tire(s) and road surface, assuming the stock brake system has sufficient power to lock the tire(s) (ABS not withstanding).

Regardless, I'm going to order their G+ pads for both ends of my LR based on the feedback from the folks here that are running them. I'll report back once I put some miles on them.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 11:30 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ss3964spd
Nearly all after market parts manufacturers claim some degree of improved performance over "stock" parts, and so too does Lyndall for their Gold Plus pads (Indeed, all their pads). Cut-n-paste from their site:

"Our next step up in performance is the Gold+. This is a harder pad than the Z+ with 20% more stopping power than a stock pad and is half the weight. Runs cooler, with little to no noise or dust. Our Gold Plus compound has the highest customer satisfaction and will provide a noticeable increase in stopping power. This compound works great with stock rotors."

What is "stopping power"? Does it mean that for any given PSI of hydraulic pressure their pads will slow the bike 20% faster than stock pads? Does that apply to pads that are cold or hot? Does it mean their G+ pads are 20% more resistant to fading than stock pads? I notice they do not claim they can stop the bike in a shorter distance, which is what one really wants, because that's dictated by the available traction between the tire(s) and road surface, assuming the stock brake system has sufficient power to lock the tire(s) (ABS not withstanding).

Regardless, I'm going to order their G+ pads for both ends of my LR based on the feedback from the folks here that are running them. I'll report back once I put some miles on them.
It's all pretty much marketing hype except for the DOT friction rating.
You'll see two letters in the rating which are brakes cold & hot

Coefficient of Friction
E .25 – .35
F .35 – .45
G .45 – .55
H .55 – .65

So, the best performing pads from a stopping ability point of view would be rated HH.
I just ordered a set of Lyndall pads with Xtreme friction material:
"The Xtreme series from Lyndall is the most advanced brake that we’ve ever produced. The Lyndall Xtreme series boasts the highest friction rating yet: HH."
In the past I've used EBC HH rated pads.
 

Last edited by Hulkss; Jun 29, 2020 at 11:34 AM.
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Hulkss
So, the best performing pads from a stopping ability point of view would be rated HH.
It's all a trade off. Typically, more aggressive pads tend to have a negative impact on rotor longevity. And while they may indeed offer less fade, and the potential of over all better brake performance and feel, the tires are still the limiting factor when it comes time to throw out the anchor. Finally, and IMO, a lot of the "which pads to get" decision should be based on ones riding style.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ss3964spd
It's all a trade off. Typically, more aggressive pads tend to have a negative impact on rotor longevity. And while they may indeed offer less fade, and the potential of over all better brake performance and feel, the tires are still the limiting factor when it comes time to throw out the anchor. Finally, and IMO, a lot of the "which pads to get" decision should be based on ones riding style.
Usually true, however:
Most HH pads are sintered and are hard and more abrasive. The new Xtreme HH Lyndall pads use a new Dupont organic material that is more rotor friendly.
On an H-D with a single caliper and rotor up front the stopping distance is significantly longer than dual rotor bikes. Brakes with more grip will definitely help.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Hulkss
My stock brakes worked fine, however, the front pads were done at 13,000 miles.

I guess this is what you get with a single rotor front and a 730 lb bike. Still, only 13,000 miles doesn't sound like a whole lot.

The other thing that accelerates brake pad wear is heat. I'm wondering if the larger rotor of the Arlen Ness Big Brake Kit would not only improve braking, but might also cool better with more surface area and actually improve pad life.

(Total energy slowing or stopping the bike is the same, therefore total heat energy is approx the same for any combination of brake discs and pad. Two discs only have to do do half the work each, so pads should last double, but the two discs also have double the cooling surface with only half the heat load. Of course, a lot of the heat is taken away by the heat of vaporization of the friction material itself which is what leads to some of the pad wear.)
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AJ88V
I guess this is what you get with a single rotor front and a 730 lb bike. Still, only 13,000 miles doesn't sound like a whole lot.

The other thing that accelerates brake pad wear is heat. I'm wondering if the larger rotor of the Arlen Ness Big Brake Kit would not only improve braking, but might also cool better with more surface area and actually improve pad life.

(Total energy slowing or stopping the bike is the same, therefore total heat energy is approx the same for any combination of brake discs and pad. Two discs only have to do do half the work each, so pads should last double, but the two discs also have double the cooling surface with only half the heat load. Of course, a lot of the heat is taken away by the heat of vaporization of the friction material itself which is what leads to some of the pad wear.)
Bigger brakes will be better, however, you can't go bigger on 16" wheels - like a Heritage.

Brake pad material burnishes onto the rotor metal surface. It is important to mechanically remove this material and establish a fresh surface if you are changing pad material. Brake cleaner is not enough.
I use a Brush Research Flex-hone in a drill press.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 05:54 PM
  #19  
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Got my pads today and installed the fronts. Lots of meat left on the stock pads.

Question about the clamps and gaskets on the slip ons. Do they actually need to be replaced every time the mufflers are removed?

Also, for the Fat Boy specifically does the bottom muffler have to come off as well in order to take the hanger bracket off, to clear the bolts on the caliper? Or will that front bolt slide on by the bracket?
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 09:01 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by iHodor
Got my pads today and installed the fronts. Lots of meat left on the stock pads.

Question about the clamps and gaskets on the slip ons. Do they actually need to be replaced every time the mufflers are removed?

Also, for the Fat Boy specifically does the bottom muffler have to come off as well in order to take the hanger bracket off, to clear the bolts on the caliper? Or will that front bolt slide on by the bracket?
Clamps should be fine but gaskets have a spare set anyways man. Bottom muffler looks like it should be moved out of the way but if you can work without moving it right.
You guys know a larger rotor kit that's light and cost effective ? Been thinking about a larger rotor.
 
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