2020 FXLRS pullback risers
Extended upper clutch cable - 37200379 ($89.99)
Extended upper front ABS brake line - 41800721 ($64.99)
Twist Grip wire extension - 69201804 ($16.50)
Turn Signal wire extension 8" - 69201795 ($16.50) *you'll need 2
Switch wire extension - 69201794 ($29.95) *you'll need 2
I would also get a new set of solid riser bushings for anything above 6.5". Speed Merchant carries a set for $49.95.
As long as you are mechanically inclined enough to remove your gas tank, plug in some wire extensions, replace the upper clutch cable and brake line, you can have it done in your garage in probably 2 hours start to finish. Then you'll just need to get it to a dealer for a proper brake bleed (unless you have the capability at home to do it).
So, after a couple months riding with the 5.5" risers (which was a huge improvement over the stock risers) I decided to move up to the 6.5". I did also manage to source a stock FXLR upper clutch cable for $20 so I will be installing that when the risers get here in hopes of being able to return to the stock clutch cable routing through the upper triple clamp. I'm not great at documenting installs, but when I do this one I will try and get some details captured around need (or not) for hand control/TBW/turn signal wire extensions since that seems to be the main uncertainty around going to 6.5". I'll also try to capture whether or not swapping out the upper clutch cable with the 6.5" risers will provide enough length to keep the stock clutch cable routing.
There is a bit of work involved if you want to go with the 6.5" risers w/o wire extensions. First, you definitely need to remove your tank to give yourself open access to the rubber grommet that bundles/routes your wires inside the frame.
You'll need to pop that grommet out, and once you do you'll find a hard plastic wire guide/tray attached to a rubber flap. I cut the flap off to get it out of the way, then individually removed the wire bundles from the tray. The tray folds over on itself and clips together, so be patient and find the locking tabs and release them. Once I got the tray out of the way I looked at what wires had the most slack and pushed those the farthest into the frame (checking for tension at full L/R lockout). I then unplugged and rerouted the signal wires to make sure they weren't intertwined with other wires and pulled a bit of slack out of the frame end of the wires (I did this part with the bike at full right lockout as this is where the wires will have the least amount of slack). One of the signal wires is ziptied to another wire so I removed the ziptie. I pulled the signal wire connectors as close to the front of the frame as I could, then started at the bottom of the grommet and reinstalled the rubber grommet. Also, make sure you loosen the hand controls and pull all the signal wire slack you can from there. Once I got the grommet reinstalled, I double checked the slack in all the wires at full L/R lockout and had plenty.
I personally skipped the "purge" when removing the tank, and ended up throwing a P0463 ECM code (which is triggered by inaccurate fuel level reading from the fuel level sensor) so I cleared it and re-fired the bike and the code didn't return. One note, there is an electrical connector that is a PITA to get to that you need to disconnect before removing the tank.
Attaching some pictures for reference.
Search | Drag SpecialtiesŽ | From Our Garage To Yours Since 1968 Ž
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Search | Drag SpecialtiesŽ | From Our Garage To Yours Since 1968 Ž
World Wide Shipping










