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I have 3 wire kodlins in the front, 4 wire in the back with bcm flashed for a dedicated stop light.
Elypse and Neowise. I forget which is which.
NO hyperflash. Check the Heinz.
B2141 and B2146 are both Left front turn signal output open and Right front turn signal open respectively. So it would seem you have a prob with the front signal wiring somehow. I'd further say you're getting hyper flashing because the bike is telling you that there is a problem with the indicators.
Until you address this, you are probably pissing into the wind trying to deal with the hyper flash.
Rather than chasing your own tail, I'd strip the front sigs out completely and redo them. Test them laying loose just connected to the harness.
And then check, were the indicators wired through the bars? Did you splice the new indicators into the original signal wires? Check for continuity, Any other rerouting of the wiring? Connections good where they join the main loom?
As a small crumb of comfort, when I put Heinz on the Standard, the idiot light hyper flashed, but turning on the 4 ways for 30 secs did the job. So there's that
And then check, were the indicators wired through the bars? Did you splice the new indicators into the original signal wires? Check for continuity, Any other rerouting of the wiring? Connections good where they join the main loom?
As a small crumb of comfort, when I put Heinz on the Standard, the idiot light hyper flashed, but turning on the 4 ways for 30 secs did the job. So there's that
no bars were harmed during the installation of these LEDs I literally cut the original signal wires and soldered to them (all outside the bars/switchgear)
Originally Posted by Doublefelix
Did you use 3 wire or 2 wire fronts?
off the top of my head I think it was 2 to 2, but will need to go out in the garage and check the old signals that were removed. There certainly wasn't any wires left over, I remember that much.
everything flashes fine externally, it's just the dash light that wants to be hyper.
Ordinarly a few mins of 4 way flashing and the BCM calms down (not my first LED rodeo), but not on this bike
There is other posts on here with the same results. The LED learn feature of the BCM is run and the indicators themselves flash correctly but the repeaters on the dash don't.
The repeaters are a separate circuit to the indicators and each indicator has its own power from the BCM. There has to be something wrong in the way the BCM is programmed and it is not working correctly, IMO.
Have you done the sync setup yet?
You turn the Hazards on for 10 seconds, turn the bike off and let it sit for iirc 60 seconds, and then you turn the ignition back on.
Have you done the sync setup yet?
You turn the Hazards on for 10 seconds, turn the bike off and let it sit for iirc 60 seconds, and then you turn the ignition back on.
yep, see my original post. I've tried all manner of variations of this process too,
it just doesn't want to play ball. Never had this much trouble with any other bike I've fitted LEDs on.
yep, see my original post. I've tried all manner of variations of this process too,
it just doesn't want to play ball. Never had this much trouble with any other bike I've fitted LEDs on.
****, my bad.
I had to sync my lights when I installed the custom dynamics Magic Strobes, but not when I installed the LED inserts.
replace the incandescent bulbs and see if they clear, they are historic since the"h" at he end.
it may simply be one set not having enough of a resistance and it sees the difference.
you may have to match the set. i have the Ciro front and rear with no issues...
NOW, read this closely...my run/stop switch likes to bounce into a mid state and throws a dash light. i can rock it back to run, and it goes off...BUT, if i do a MIL check, the dash brings up the very first HISTORC code from the initial install of my LED's. you may have an an issue throwing a MIL and the BCM correlation just continues to show the old codes. check the connections, retry the stockers, and maybe swap to a like set matching both ends.
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dash hyper flash since LED swap
I literally cut the original signal wires and soldered to them (all outside the bars/switchgear)
