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Just put these on last night 20 minutes of time, about just make sure you are careful jump starting..i plan on keeping left controlled on bike, non lit, controllers around just in case you need to take off in a pinch..
just
Great timing on this thread. Im buying a set of the lighted switches this week for my 2024 Road Glide. Ive read the service manual, seems like a straight forward swap out. Do the switches come mounted in a new pod or do they install in the existing pod after removal of non lighted switches? Any issues?
Great timing on this thread. Im buying a set of the lighted switches this week for my 2024 Road Glide. Ive read the service manual, seems like a straight forward swap out. Do the switches come mounted in a new pod or do they install in the existing pod after removal of non lighted switches? Any issues?
1)Do the switches come mounted in a new pod or do they install in the existing pod after removal of non lighted switches?
a: it is in the pod, prett straight forward. ..btw, unplug 60amp fuse (when pulling fuse make sure your FOB is near)
b) Any Issues:
some things to help, mark (on the handlebar, where the hand switch pod\clam shell comes together, to help get re-alignment back where you started. Watch videos on heated grip install. Pay close attention to how wires are routed (DONT PINCH THOSE WIRES)..i dont want to jinx ya but its straight forward, IMHO Don't over tighten T25 or t27 bolts for the controls. I might be wrong, but when i put the clam shell back i fastened the top all the way T25 ..(alternating with bottom t25) but making sure top was completely touching..take a look on gaps before you start (the top should have non-gap, bottom, will have a gap)
your hand control lights\headlight might flash 2x, until you get the 60amp in there and the bike in the on mode it should go off after few seconds
Dont jump start a dead battery with the new-backlit controllers..thats what i have been hearing CAN\LAN bus is touchy
1)Do the switches come mounted in a new pod or do they install in the existing pod after removal of non lighted switches?
a: it is in the pod, prett straight forward. ..btw, unplug 60amp fuse (when pulling fuse make sure your FOB is near)
b) Any Issues:
some things to help, mark (on the handlebar, where the hand switch pod\clam shell comes together, to help get re-alignment back where you started. Watch videos on heated grip install. Pay close attention to how wires are routed (DONT PINCH THOSE WIRES)..i dont want to jinx ya but its straight forward, IMHO Don't over tighten T25 or t27 bolts for the controls. I might be wrong, but when i put the clam shell back i fastened the top all the way T25 ..(alternating with bottom t25) but making sure top was completely touching..take a look on gaps before you start (the top should have non-gap, bottom, will have a gap)
your hand control lights\headlight might flash 2x, until you get the 60amp in there and the bike in the on mode it should go off after few seconds
Dont jump start a dead battery with the new-backlit controllers..thats what i have been hearing CAN\LAN bus is touchy
Thanks. I have already installed the heated grips. I just didn't know if the switches had to be installed in the original pods or if they came with new pods. I appreciate the info.
Thanks. I have already installed the heated grips. I just didn't know if the switches had to be installed in the original pods or if they came with new pods. I appreciate the info.
btw, did you have to have the dealership enable the 2024 heated grips.. i am not sure if the new skyline os, allows for this now or?
it depends. I installed mine and they just worked. but some have had to have them flashed to work at the dealer....
thanks..yea my dealership said for 50$ they would install and flash..so im like geez, might as well for that, but the other side says thats a lot of 2$ on Tuesday tacos if i can do it without a flash)
ihbond, did you jump start your bike, causing the left hand control module to go bad? I bought one of the Noco, straight to battery, cables for jumping, that plug into my Noco battery jumper thing but haven’t installed it after hearing the warning about jumping Gen2 bikes on the ITFZ YouTube channel.
Interestingly, in 24 when I was looking to buy a RG, the one on the dealer floor in the color that I wanted had a dead battery. The “fit specialist” jumped it and smoked the LH control module. I took a different bike and never gave it another thought until recently. I keep my bike on a 5a tender, just want to be prepared.
ihbond, did you jump start your bike, causing the left hand control module to go bad? I bought one of the Noco, straight to battery, cables for jumping, that plug into my Noco battery jumper thing but havent installed it after hearing the warning about jumping Gen2 bikes on the ITFZ YouTube channel.
Interestingly, in 24 when I was looking to buy a RG, the one on the dealer floor in the color that I wanted had a dead battery. The fit specialist jumped it and smoked the LH control module. I took a different bike and never gave it another thought until recently. I keep my bike on a 5a tender, just want to be prepared.
just awareness from other riders\ forums and heck my dealership mentioned backorders to warranty work (cvoa)..HMMMM,.
But as for me direclty, nope..Heck even my newer goldwing if you jump,start can fry the radio controller under the seat..canbus\lanbus. Gremlins..they need more fusing or better way to isolate when jump starting..but we are not there yet .
its not 100% it damages but i bet a good high percentage. Battery tender (noco 5) is what i use and recomeneded for software updates etc etc to keep up with the drian. For me, i would just fast charge and not jump
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Hand controller lights
