Its not much of a big time mod, but it is under $50 and it does make the wires in the tripple tree area look a bit better.
I'm in the process of changing the bars on my bike and didn't like the cheap a$$ed plastic covering the factory put on my wires. But when I was in a dealer I noticed that the Wideglide has a plastic meshcovering that looks a lot better with thenew Diamondback lines and cables I'm putting on.
So I did a little digging and found the part number70017-06 (Conduit, Black Mesh) and ordered a couple of pieces from Zenotti's to replace the ones on my bike.
Here's a couple of pics of the old plastic on the right, and the new mesh on the left.
Please no cracks about how dirty the bike is, its in that "winter mod" state.
Believe me itWILL be cleaned and polished before it gets outside the garage. If the wife will stop bothering me long enoughto finish everything and thesnow/icemelts around here that is.



Here's a closer look at it.



BTW there is an unexpected benifit to using the mesh on internal wires. It was very easy to slip the wires through the bars with this covering on them. My bars don't have any major bends in them, but the old covering was so stiff and bent up it was a sure bet that they were going to be Royal Pain in The A$$ to get through.

 

XK
a question about installing them turn sig standoffs on the triple tree pinch bolts

iassume you torqued the pinch bolts to spec with the standoff mounted?

did you encounter a problem when torquing that the standoff wanted to "rotate" and not stay in place?

(i hope i am making myself clear)

when i tried it, i couldn't seem to keep the standoff in position(perpendicular to the fork)
they yould rotate (right one upwards, left one downwards) in the direction of closing the bolt.

 

Next time you work on it. Get a big C-Clamp and use it to hold it or block its movement while you tighten it up. Another alternative would be toget someoneto hold it still with a wrenchor something while you tighten the pinch bolt.

 

i actually haven't torqued them yet because I'm still waiting on fork boots so i can put it all back together. but it sounds like its something I'll have work out. maybe start with it turned the opposite way and try to have them end up in the right spot

 

 

Quick connect battery charger.Use banana jacks from a local electronics shop. Solder wires to the pins on one of the jacks, add shrink sleeving,run the wires to the battery,and bolt to an out of sight location.

 

Horn relocation, formed bracket and attached using the rear motor mount bolt.

 

Blacking out tail light and signal reflectors.
The Kuryakyn tail light has some silicone that holds theLED lights in place, just scrape away the silicone with a wood or plastic stick, remove LED assembly, clean, mask inside of housing,spray on someflat black paint, then remove masking while paint is still wet so you get a nice smooth line with no jagged edges. The LED light face plate I used little nuts and masked the top of them. After a day of drying, just reassemble and stake with silicone.

Signal lights, remove lens cover and bulb, squeeze a piece of a paper towel in to a small ball, put it in the socket, mask the outer housing and spray with some gloss black paint.

 

eBay seller "gregg5869" has some real nice inexpensive billet timing covers:
http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQf...sassZgregg5869

(Prices went up, the below cover was $15.00 delivered)

 

Thanks for adding this here at Under 50Formula.

Keep em coming, I know you have a dozen or so more.

I picked up a variety of sizes of the sheathing from Frys.
Nice stuff. Gonna change out bars again soon.

mud