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I'll go over to CCF, put in a word for you and shoot you a link.

 

I wasnt trying to offend anyone, just drawning a little bit of a attention.

sorry Mud

 

Not offended, I'm saying you should occasionally comment
on one of the postings.

Lots of folks have taken the time to post up their ideas -

Day before yesterday, there were 500 hits on this thread
yesterday there were over 400 hits.
Only four people commented.

mud

 

Terry was kind enough to sticky the thread on top.

Thanks Terry!

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Mud, here's your link to the seat covering thread:
http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=60692

There's already some replies from people willing to help you out. You can either join or shoot me the replies you would like to submit and I'll relay that information.

I've also got 4 PMs for you to read.

 

How to build your own tank lift!

You can either buy your materials/parts online or through the local hardware store, here's the break down of parts required to do the lift.

Mcmaster bought tank lift items for the build:
3/4" 5/16-18 S.S. bolts.........................Part Number: 93190A581 $7.25 per Pack of 10 (2 required)
4 1/4" 5/16-18 S.S. bolts......................Part Number: 93190A581 $7.25 per Pack of 10 (1 required)
5/16-18 S.S. nuts..................................Part Number: 94819A046 $10.30 per Pack of 25 (2 required)
5/16 S.S. washers.................................Part Number: 90107A030 $14.46 per Pack of 100 (10 required)
5/16 S.S. lockwashers..........................Part Number: 92147A030 $11.63 per Pack of 100 (3 required)
1/8" x 1" x 36" cold rolled steel strip Part Number: 8962K22 $6.88 Each (6-8" required)
7/16"- 25/32" worm clamp................Part Number: 5388K16 $5.28 per Pack of 10 (2 required)

Hardware store bought items:
Individually purchased hardware items as described above: approximately $10.00 - $15.00
5/32 vaccum hose for vent line $0.79 per 12"
1/4" fuel line for x-over $1.98 per 12"

Now for the cheap project pictures and description:

Step 1 Mark and cut your flat stock. A 3" lift will have 2 brackets cut at 4" and marked to drill 1/2" in from each end. You only need to mark 1 bracket for drilling:


Step 2 center punch 1 bracket where it needs to be drilled then tape the 2 brackets together so you can be sure the 2 holes are drilled at the same point:


Step 3 Round off the corners on both brackets so they don't look like somebody made them in their garage . tip; remove the tape because the parts will get hot and the sticky stuff is a real bear to remove after it cools:


Step 4 Paint them up with some good primer like Rust-o-leum and a good paint of your choice, I use Rust-o-leum also:


Step 5 Install the brackets:


Here's the instructions:

1. paint brackets with primer and then your choice of color.

2. drain the tank, there will still be gas in there after you siphon
it out so use caution when you remove the cross over line.

3. remove bolt from front of tank and loosen the rear bolt.

4. remove cross over line being cautious of extra gas that will remain
after you think the tank is drained.

5. support the front of the tank with a can or piece of 2x4 so you can
install 1 spacer on each side of the frame (those are the washers that
are welded together), 2 lift brackets, bolt, washers, and nut.

6. install top tank bolts with washers, lock washers, and nuts.

7. install cross over line and tighten down with hose clamps.

8. install the tank breather tube.

9. you're done, stand back and enjoy what you've accomplished!

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This is a post by WGSkee about the cross-over removal trick:
RE: damn tank lift! - 5/12/2006 5:46:08 PM

WgSkee
The 3" lift has to have the new gas line.In the long run with the 2"
riser you have the gas line rubbing on the frame... which may or may
not rub through.. it's easy to change the the gas line out..The only
thing I'd do.. is make sure you either siphon out your gas tank or run
the gas tank almost empty before trying to change out the bottom
crossover hose. Also, th

 

Nicely done Rude, I'm a big fan of usingSS hardware wherever possible.
Cuts down on the places where rust can start. Especially areas that are hard to keep clean or protected with wax.

 

Great job on the write up Dog. Thanks for posting it up here.

Good pictures as well. Makes a big difference.

What the heck happened to Skee??
Been gone for awhile.

mud

 

I LOVE MY STAINLESS! !

I just checked his profile and it says he logged on 3-5-08 but his last post way a year ago. Must be lurking. I've had my time where I would have rather lurked than posted so I understand. Too bad tho' he's a great guy.

Bad thing is he has no contact information available so we cannot let him know we're talking about him.

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About the tank lift post...
I don't remember anyone ever posting the process to build your own the cheap and easy way, I have been meaning to do this for over a year, so I figured before I forgot to do it again I had better get it done.

Just a note:
No guarantees on the rust not showing it's face. But, if you really want to save money you can use zinc plated hardware or paint some steel stuff.

 

Dog, you musta missed Varmint's contribution -

Page 02

tank lift. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Varmint post# 46
https://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=2550628

My own contribution is real cheap,
but requires welding -

Page 08

tank lift. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .mud post# 304
https://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=2665295

Yours now shows a third technique,
and there are several other methods as well.

I went back to my posting and updated a couple shots
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